If you're keen for a close encounter with a whale from the safety of the shore, then Byron Bay is about as close as you'll get.
Cape Byron Headland Reserve is regarded as Australia's best land-based whale watching location. Australia's most easterly point gives you the best opportunity to see the humpback whales on their annual migration north, or on their return journey south.
The creatures leave the Antarctic in April and arrive in the warmer northern waters sometime between May and August, where they mate or give birth. They commence their journey southwards around September, but sometimes stay in northern waters until October.
When commercial whaling ceased in Byron Bay in 1963, the estimated humpback population was between 200 and 500. Now, the east coast numbers are estimated to be 2,500 to 3,000.
While a boat cruise will take you right into a whale's territory, consider the advantages of the land-based whale watching experience: it's easily accessible; it's free; it's safe; and it's less disruptive to the whales.
Sue Walker, manager of the Cape Byron Headland Reserve, says the Cape attracted 1,500 people a day during the peak of the 2001 whale season. Approximately 580 whales were sighted in the space of a week.
"People find great excitement and pleasure in seeing these huge denizens of the deep from the heights of the Cape. Land-based whale watching can be just as rewarding, yet is considerably more accessible and cheaper to experience than vessel-based activities. It is also much safer for both people and whales as there is no impact on the migrating mammals."
Cape Byron is the site of one of the longest studies of humpback whales in the Southern Hemisphere, with a systematic survey of migrating whales being carried out annually since 1981.
In addition to the whale count, the study has included research into genetic fingerprinting, with skin samples being collected; acoustic communication between whales; and whale identification.
If you're fortunate enough that your visit coincides with the study into whale communication, you may be able to hear live whale sounds at Cape Byron's visitors centre.
Sue Walker says the sounds are piped into the centre for about two weeks each year, while the research is being conducted.
"People get so excited when they hear the live whales' songs," she says.
"But there's always a general feeling of excitement among people on the headland, when they see the whales being active, and breaching and spurting water through their blowholes."
Anyone sceptical about not seeing a whale from Cape Byron? NSW National Parks reassures us that at Cape Byron, you can see 30 kilometres out to sea, and that 90 per cent of whales stay within 10 km of the coastline. As long as you're there at the right time of year, there's a good chance you'll see a whale. Killer whales have also been spotted occasionally.
Binoculars are essential for decent viewing, but if you forget them, you can hire a pair from the Cape Byron shop. Coin operated telescopes are also available and a roving National Parks ranger is often there to answer your questions.
The best way to get to Cape Byron is to park your car below the walking track and do the 40 minute trek, coastal scenery included free of charge, up the hill. However, parking is available at the lighthouse at a cost of $4 per car. The Cape Byron Trust may, in the near future, make a shuttle bus available to take whale watchers up the headland.
There is just one company that offers whale watching cruises in these waters. Ballina Ocean Tours will pick you up from your accommodation in Byron Bay. It's a half hour drive south to their jetty in Ballina. The three hour cruise, which costs $55 for adults and $25 for children (12 years and under) only takes 10 people at a time. Dolphins are a familiar sight on this trip too. Morning or afternoon tea is supplied.
Spend a night at one of the Peppers' properties and enjoy a complimentary breakfast when you book with your NRMA Member Card. Find out more...
If you get seasick but don't want to miss the experience, try September instead of July. In September, the water is generally calmer as the winter winds are long gone and its much warmer as you venture out at sea. Nikki, Lawson.
4WD
