If you thought unspoilt north coast townships were a thing of the past, you're wrong. Crescent Head is a sleepy village that still has loads of unsophisticated charm - and great surf. If you want a peaceful holiday full of sun, sand and surf and a friendly small-town atmosphere this is your destination - just don't expect shopping malls, nightclubs or five-star hotels.
The town, 19 km south-east of Kempsey, is located in the northern lee of a large headland, called 'Big Nobby' by the locals. The curved sweep of Killick beach extends to the north and the view from Big Nobby is spectacular.
Surfing is a big deal here - where else could you hire a surfboard from the local Post Office? Crescent Head is long board heaven - it has one of the best right-hand point breaks in the world, and year-round you will find international surfers enjoying the world class waves. If the surf isn't ideal at the town beaches ('front', 'back' or 'the Point'), you can try Racecourse, Delicate Nobby, Big Hill or Point Plomer - all south of town.
A great source of information is 'Kenno', surfing legend, president of the Longboard riders club and the local postie. Each year in May, the club hosts the Malibu Classic for 'old blokes' down to 'grommets'. It's the biggest amateur Malibu competition in Australia.
In September the club runs the Australian Old Mal Titles for riders with pre-1966 boards. Competitors basically come for 'the beer and the t-shirt' - oh, and a trophy.
Even if surfing isn't your thing, there's still plenty to do. You'll find bowling greens and tennis courts at the Country Club and the whole area is a popular fishing spot - April/May is when the stocks are at their best.
There's swimming at the beaches, (front beach is the only patrolled beach in the area) or in the clear waters of Killick Creek, which snakes through town and is particularly good for young children.
What the six-hole golf course lacks in size it makes up for in spectacular views - but watch out for the ocean water hazard which is a doozy. The course features a great example of community spirit - the two (once unsightly) cement water towers have been transformed by mosaic art into real feature pieces by students and the local aboriginal community.
Hat Head National Park protects the coastal environment north of the town right up to South West Rocks, while south of Crescent Head, Goolawah and Limeburners Creek Nature Reserves extend 30km to Port Macquarie. In all, around 60km of the coastline north and south of Crescent Head is locked away from development.
Bushwalking is a popular activity with many great trails in the surrounding national parks. There are two tracks in Limeburners - Big Hill track (two km) and Fishermans track, an easy one kilometre walk between Barries Bay camping area and Point Plomer, both with spectacular views. There's pockets of ferny coastal rainforest within the park with a great variety of trees and plants, and picnic and BBQ areas.
There's also an interesting walk from Goolawah Lagoon to the Racecourse campground with more great views - and you can even take your dog on this one.
With a population of around 1100, the entertainment and eating-out in Crescent Head are strictly small town, but friendly and good value. There's a Chinese restaurant, and bistros and bands at the Country Club and Crescent Head Tavern. Your other dining options are the local cafes and the Two Galahs restaurant at the Wombat Beach Resort (relax - they serve neither).
Another big event in the Crescent Head district is the annual Crescent Head Sky Show on the Queen's Birthday long weekend. This family fun day features parachute and helicopter rescue demonstrations, kites, markets, sand modelling contests as well as a beach treasure hunt capped off by a huge fireworks display.
If you're interested in aboriginal culture and history there are significant Aboriginal historical sites at Point Plomer and Big Hill including burial sites, a quarry and shell middens. The first post-Mabo native title claim was made by the Dunghutti people at Crescent Head and there is a strong aboriginal community in the area.
If you're feeling restless and have a 4WD you can drive all the way south from Crescent Head to the Hastings River punt at Port Macquarie. Alternatively you can drive north along Loftus Road to Richardson's Crossing where you join the beach and drive as up to South West Rocks (you'll need a permit from Kempsey Council to drive on the beach). Best to check with the local rangers and tides information first and be aware this trip is suitable only for experienced four-wheel-drivers.
But honestly, once you've arrived and unpacked your swimmers, sunnies and towel in Crescent Head - you'll probably never want to leave.
Take advantage of the uncrowded surf. Once you get back to crowded surf like Sydney you will regret not using the perfect Crescent Head point waves to their full potential. Also, at Malibu Munchees Cafe 2 servings of chips will fill at least four people.
Paul, Sydney
If renting a board, ensure you're at the store early, to take your pick of the locals best.
Shane, Coogee
For golfers who need a challenge and a view, the local country club is a must, it's six holes of pure hard work and spectacular views!
Sammy, Townsville.
4WD
