With its sun-toasted locals, five surf shops on Jonson Street (each within metres of each other) and a regular procession of backpackers toting surfboards, it doesn't take an Einstein to figure Byron is a surfing town.
Since the discovery of world-class waves in the area 30 years ago, Byron has been a famed domestic and international surfing point. When the area's most-famous break, Lennox Head, was chanced upon by two lucky New Zealand surfers in 1962, the world surfing press lapped it up. As a result, Byron became one of Australia's must-visit surf destinations. If you're a surfer on an East Coast surf trip, you're not worth the wax in the your ears if you don't stop to check it.
With its variety of north, east and south-facing beaches, Byron boasts the equivalent of a typical surfer's holy grail. With warm water, quality waves and beautiful surrounds, there's a rarely a day that won't create at least a half-decent wave somewhere - for experts and beginners alike.
Around the centre of Byron are three main surf areas that support differing styles and levels of surfing ability. The Bay, the most-protected of Byron's surf areas and the closest to town, is a cluster of adjoining beaches that offer great conditions for aspiring, old or novice waxheads. With many of the breaks offering gentler conditions than the eastern-facing beaches, it's a top spot if you're just starting out, or want to improve before tackling somewhere more challenging. Whatever the case, it's where many of the area's malibu-riding-retirees spend their time, getting swooping 100-metre long rides at The Pass, through to Clarkes Beach and occasionally to Main Beach.
The next area on the Byron surfing map is the outer Bay - Watego's and Little Watego's - which boasts more challenging rides for long-time longboarders. It's generally not too rough, just very, very, crowded... not the place to be unless you like spending more time looking at other peoples' rides than getting your own. If you do go there, take a hint and check out the scenery - it's why this beach hosts some of the priciest coastal real estate in Australia. Unless you're in the millionaire club, don't even ask.
The last area is Tallows Beach - which sits on the southern corner of Cape Byron - and its following beaches south. If you're a keen surfer, you already know them - Lennox Head, Suffolk Park, Ballina, Broken Head... they're like your biblical surfing verse.
Generally speaking, there's bigger, more challenging waves here but it still can provide good, learning waves for beginners and intermediates on the right day. From Cosy Corner in Tallows' northern end (one of the few places protected from howling northerly winds), to Dolphins (named after a frequent-visiting pod), to Broken Heads' protected coves and beyond, the variety is amazing.
Of course when it's big, less experienced surfers and swimmers should remember that almost anywhere here will be too rough, and also that many of the beaches aren't patrolled. Even Tallows Beach, which is very popular and close to the town, is only regularly patrolled in the peak holiday period.
Swimmers and surfers who prefer to go 'au natural' might also check Broken Head Nature Reserve, halfway between Lennox Head and Cape Byron. Although slightly difficult to locate, Kings, Bray, and Whites beaches (in order moving south) are a series of beautiful white sandy coves bays that offer seclusion and protection from northerly and southerly winds... and the holiday hordes.
Similarly, if you want to start surfing and are in Byron, you don't have to surf with big crowds to get started. Around a dozen local surf schools run regular group lessons for all age groups and genders and usually they'll take you to easy, lesser-crowded spots to start with. You don't have to take a lesson - you can simply hire boards - but trust me, regular surfers will appreciate the time you take to learn the basic surfing rules. After that you're on your own. Becoming a competent surfer cannot be taught. Only learnt.
Just remember these three key tips:
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Serious surfers should check out Tallows Beach, a short drive from Byron Bay itself. The long, mainly unknown beach, has some of the best surfing conditions on the coast. It's not uncommon to see eight foot waves here in winter!
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