On the stunning trail known as Manly Scenic Walkway, the scenery is the star - sandstone headlands, vast views, sailboats and bomboras. The path leads around the northern foreshores of Sydney Harbour, from the Spit Bridge to Manly. For this 9 km walk allow three to four hours. You'll need light walking shoes, sunhat and water bottle; in summer, bring your swimming gear.
'The Spit' (that is, a sandspit) is located about 30 minute's drive north of the city, via North Sydney, Neutral Bay and Spit Junction. A bus or taxi from the city will get you here. After arriving at the northern end of The Spit Bridge, cross the road to the eastern side, descend to the clearing (from which the pre-bridge punts used to cross), then follow the path east around the foreshore. Basically, that is all you need to do for the next few hours. Generally well marked, the trail becomes temporarily obscure in only one or two places - if it does, just retrace your footsteps and look again.
Leaf-framed views of sandstone headlands, ultramarine-gone-ultraviolet views of the harbour, sails and ferry wakes, buoys and picnic coves - all these can delight the hiker. Take a dip from time to time, although in summer be mindful of sharks. (It's been some 35 years since the last fatal attack inside the harbour, but who wants to update history?)
At points you will pass the front lawns of sumptuous houses, but as culture continues to surround nature you will see almost no birds or fauna, and certainly no kangaroos or koalas.
As much of the trail runs through Sydney Harbour National Park, along the route you'll find illustrated plaques informing you about the nearby native flora, such as grevillea, figs, banksia, scentless rosewood and angophora - all of which are protected, so don't pick 'em.
The first section of the walk, 1.5 km to Clontarf Beach, takes about 40 minutes. Follow the shoreline around Fisher Bay and Sandy Bay before arriving at Clontarf which has shark-proof swimming, picnic facilities and road access. (It is possible to cover only portions of this walk, exiting where the trail meets a local road, such as at Clontarf or at Beatty Street, Balgowlah - although with the latter you'll be a long way from public transport or taxis.)
Continue on to Castle Rock and Grotto Point, site of a pretty lighthouse that from afar looks like a tiny Greek island chapel. From close up it is far less interesting, but the point it sits upon gives a great view of what one of the 'First Fleeters' (in 1788) rather enthusiastically described as 'the finest harbour in the universe.'
Continuing past Crater Cove lookout (near Tania Park), you are now approaching the halfway point of the trek. There are nearby Aboriginal carvings, which you may stumble upon if lucky, however for their protection they are not signposted. Easier to spot is Washaway Beach below Grotto Point, a nudist spot and a good place for a swim. Next come Crater Cove, Dobroyd Point and Reef Beach, the latter being another nudist beach. When you hit Forty Baskets Beach, the modest attire of the swimmers signals the end of the 'wild' part of this walk. From here on it's mostly mild; a half hour stroll around the leafy foreshores of suburban Fairlight.
Your potted view of the Australian bush now gives way to the leisure possibilities of Manly - named so because that's what Captain Phillip of the First Fleet thought of the local Aborigines. (In fact, they were so manly that they speared him.) Manly has a Waterworks (waterslide) and Oceanarium on West Esplanade, where a footway takes you through a transparent tunnel above which fish and sharks swim. There's also a fine Art Gallery and Museum (on West Esplanade), a ferry wharf (plus ferris wheel, carousel, bars, restaurants, and all that) - and of course clean harbour and ocean beaches.
Cross the Manly isthmus, west to east, from harbour to ocean, on The Corso, then turn south (that is, to your right) along the Esplanade to the South Steyne Surf Club. Amble along the ocean-side path. After a few minutes you'll reach several cafes, then Shelley Beach and Fairy Bower surf spot.
You can return to Manly by the same route. If you have time, grab a taxi for a quick look at North Head, the gem of the Sydney Harbour National Park. Fairfax Lookout at the point provides a great view. The best way to head back to the city is by ferry or jetcat from Manly Wharf to Circular Quay.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
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Traveller's Tip
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Amali of Boronia Park.
4WD
