Sydney on the toe: three of Sydney's favourite walks
 
 

Sydney on the toe: three of Sydney's favourite walks

Can't afford to fly to the Himalayas for trekking? Walking, that great recession-proof pastime, still doesn't cost any more than the effort to work your legs and lungs. Dig out a day-pack and some comfortable shoes, and 'hit the toe' on one of these Sydney ambles.

Bondi Beach to Coogee

An easy, sometimes thrilling trail heads south from the Bondi Icebergs clubhouse on Nott's Avenue (at the southern end of Bondi Beach). It meanders around a coastline of coves, surreal white sandstone and creamy surf to the 'glamarama' of tiny Tamarama. This is a board-free beach, good for bodysurfing and bodywatching, but don't stall there, keep going to the next cove, Bronte Beach.

After a dip - in the rip-prone surf or the safer pool - head up the short sharp hill on the south side of Bronte, to Waverley's picturesque cliff-top cemetery at the corner of St Thomas and Trafalgar streets.

Here, some fairly select deceased have achieved that ultimate Sydney aspiration, a permanent waterfront address - or, a tomb with a view.

Among the dear departed are poets Henry Lawson, Dorothea (I love a sunburnt country) Mackellar and Henry Kendall. Australia's first woman Olympic gold medal winner (1912), swimmer Fanny Durack is resting here between laps and between flights is aeronautical pioneer Lawrence Hargrave.

Now follow the parklands which run from here to Coogee Beach. Burrows Park leads down to Clovelly Bay. Cross the not particularly lovely Clovelly bus terminus, then pass the baths until you rejoin the rhythm of points and bays that make this two-hour walk so scenic. Gordons Bay opens out to another headland, which in turn leads to the fast food, beer garden and backpacker world of Coogee Bay.

Royal National Park

The huge Royal National Park on Sydney's southern outskirts at Sutherland was created in 1879, making it the second oldest public reserve in the world (only Yellowstone in the US is older) and the first anywhere to be designated a national park.

The park offers a great variety of walking tracks - over 150 km in all - from wide and paved walkways to narrow trails.

Obtain a park tourist map before setting out - they're available from the visitor centre or the entrance toll booth - and find out about weather conditions. Always tread softly.

For beginners, the Forest Path, graded as easy-medium, is only 4.5 km and takes 1.5 hours. Its loop gives a real taste of the Royal's rainforests and waterways. The track takes you across the lower slopes of Forest Island, a hill that has been isolated by the valleys of the Hacking River and Bola Creek which almost surround it. Park your car at the southern end of Lady Carrington Drive. The trail starts immediately south of Bola Creek.

At the medium level, the five-kilometre Karloo Track (which starts at Heathcote Station) takes you past the beautiful Karloo Pool, a popular swimming and picknicking area. The track includes the 'whaleback' rock outcrops (named after their resemblance to whales) and concludes with the rock outcrops called the Uloola Turrets.

The big trek in the RNP is the Coast Track, a 26 km, two-day challenge that's graded as medium-hard. This stirring trail hugs the park's Pacific coastline, taking you along the cliffs and beaches from Bundeena to Otford. The walk may be done in sections or as a two-day backpack trip with an overnight stop at North Era. (In the latter case it's essential to get a bush camping permit in advance.) There is a YHA youth hostel at Garie Beach.

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

This one starts 40 km - and about that many minutes by road - north of the city. Head as far up the northern beaches peninsula as far you can.

Where Barrenjoey Road turns sharp east at Palm Beach, drive into Governor Phillip Park (beside the golf course) and park up past the seaplane wharf on the Pittwater (western) side of the peninsula. (Bring at least four $2 coins with you for the parking meter.) Walk along the Pittwater-side beach, then follow the path when it turns inland through the scrub and dunes of the sandy tombolo until it reaches the base of Barrenjoey ('baby kangaroo') Head.

Leg it up the broad, rocky track for 15 minutes - you won't be disappointed. At the top are several sandstone cottages for the light keepers. And of course the 1881 lighthouse. But, it's the dramatic views that are the real reward - at your feet is the blue sprawl of Broken Bay and the sentinel Lion Island crouching at its mouth.

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Traveller's Tip

We've lived in Sydney for 12 months now and love walking round discovering the city. The best walk we've been on is from The Spit Bridge to Manly. You get to enjoy great views of the harbour and city amongst a beautiful bush setting, discover small secluded beaches with crystal clear waters, and even see some aussie wildlife - birds, lizards etc. And at the end of an easy 2 hours, you can have a nice lunch at one of Manly's many cafés.
Grant, Sydney 

If you're just after a relaxed, short walk with views, take a stroll through Sydney's Botanic gardens for superb views of the harbour and city.
Sharon, Auckland.

Take a wander up along The Gap, there are walking paths that stretch for a fair distance and the view over the Pacific and Sydney's Heads is breath taking.
Michelle, Melbourne.

My tip is that if you plan to do a lot of walking, especially in new shoes, you should protect your feet from blisters or rubbing by using Dr Scholl's sore spot. Just cut the right sized strip and stick it to the part of the shoe that rubs. Don't stick it to your foot, stick it on the inside of the shoe. Much better than plain band aids and lasts a lot longer too, the shoe will never rub again.
ClayBoy, Lilyfield

I read ClayBoy's tip and would like to add that there are new Band Aids available called Waterproof Advanced Healing. They are very good to use if you already have a blister. Make sure you read the instructions carefully. If you use them properly, these band aids last for days & heal & protect the blister really well. You can also use them before you go out walking to protect your feet. Just a thought. Have fun!
The FieldStar, Darlington