So, you're all set to go out into the bush, with a relevant and detailed topographical map in hand. Open it up and what do you have? There are different colours, symbols, lines and swirls everywhere - but what does it all mean?
Firstly, check the map's ratio scale, found on the front cover. The lower the scale the more detail it will have. In Australia, most maps suitable for bushwalking use a ratio scale of 1:25 000. This means that the size of objects on the map are 1/25 000 of their size in reality. So, 1cm on the map represents 25,000cm, or 250m.
At the bottom of the map there is also a scalebar, useful for quick reference. In general, the horizontal length of the bar represents a certain length on the ground, for example, 5km. Scalebars are also divided up to show intermediate distances.
Generally, forests are shown in green on the map, and unforested areas - which may be grasslands or sand - are coloured white. In general, paved roads are shown by an unbroken line of a solid dark colour, such as red. Unpaved roads are shown by an unbroken line of lighter colour, such as yellow, or sometimes a white. Vehicular tracks are usually unbroken parallel lines of white, or sometimes dashed parallel lines, while walking tracks are a single dashed line. Thin blue lines mean a river; larger blue areas represent water, and blue dashed lines shows a marsh.
You'll notice too that the map is sectioned by vertical and horizontal black gridlines. On a 1:25 000 map each grid square represents one kilometre by one kilometre. This provides an easy way to plot grid references for experienced orientiers.
So-called 'contour lines' are the continuous lines which squiggle across the map's surface. These give information about elevation. Each line represents a specific elevation, and all locations along that line have the exact same elevation. The closer together contour lines are the steeper the slope.
Some contour lines have the height above sea level printed at intervals along their length - for a 1:25 000 map it may well be five metres. You can tell whether a track is going uphill or downhill by taking note of these numbers. If they get larger as they approach your destination, then you're heading uphill.
The exact difference in height between contour lines is shown in the 'Marginal Information' section, located on the map's margin. Here, you can also find other details, such as the year the map was made.
Now you need to find your starting point and destination on the map. First pinpoint your location and where you are going to - these are usually identified by a major landmark, such as a town, building, turn-off, or other physical feature.
A quick way to find out how far it is between these places is to mark the distance between them on the map on a piece of paper, or on the measuring scale on the side of a good orienteering compass. Place this against the scalebar at the bottom of the map and, hey presto, you have a rough guide.
Beware though, if there seems to be a lot of very tight contour lines in between the start of the journey and the end of it, then there's a lot of uphills, downhills, or both ahead of you - and thus more distance in reality than your rough estimation might suggest.
Reading a map is one thing, but re-folding it again is another. To avoid an origami nightmare there are some simple rules to follow.
Firstly, keep in mind that any fold you make should not bury the colourful front section of map - the part that has the title, price, and such like. If you fold any fold this section vanishes, then undo what you just did and look for another option.
Next, take a good look at the map. You'll see there are only two kinds of folds - those that go lengthwise, and those that go across the width. In most maps, you fold up all the folds going one way before you start folding it the other way. Try folding all the lengthwise folds first, in concertina fashion, and see what happens. If you lose sight of the title section of the map, you know you've made an error and should try it the other way.
Finally, maps are prone to ripping and tearing, especially out in the bush. A good tip is to unfold it before you set off and Sellotape along all the creases to help stop tears. Always fold the map in such a way as to show the area - or part of it - that you are traversing. This way you don't have to keep opening it and closing it too often, which can cause damage in no time at all.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
4WD
