The New England region in northern NSW is blessed with some of Australia's most rugged, remote mountain wilderness, protected in a chain of national parks which covers much of the Great Dividing Range east of the Tamworth to Armidale section of the New England Highway.
At the southern end of the ranges, several areas which were once state forest have now been proclaimed as National Park.
Cottan-Bimbang National Park, for example, straddles the mountain section of the Oxley Highway between Wauchope and Walcha. There are no camp sites in Cottan-Bimbang, but it is a wonderful drive through old growth eucalypt forest, and there are a couple of picnic spots beside the highway.
Sixty kilometres east of Walcha, via the 15 km unsealed Enfield Road, is another new park, the very remote Mummel Gulf. A picnic and camping area is located at New Country Swamp.
Oxley Wild Rivers National Park occupies a vast 120,000-plus hectares. Ten separate visitor areas have facilities, and all but two are accessible by car. Apsley Falls, 20 km east of Walcha, is a deep granite gorge with spectacular falls, a rim walk and a camping/picnic area.
Tia Falls and Gorge, a further 11 km east, is another example of typical New England granite country. Walking tracks follow the gorge rim. Camping and picnic areas are adjacent.
If you want go deep into the Oxley wilderness, Youdales Hut (for emergency accommodation only, camping permitted) near the eastern escarpment is accessible by four-wheel-drive only, and a permit is required.
Riverside is another four-wheel drive only section of Oxley Wild Rivers. It's accessible from Walcha, and is one of the few locations in NSW where driving is permitted in wilderness. As with Youdales Hut, you must get a a permit/gate key beforehand.
Adjoining this section of Oxley Wild Rivers is Werrikimbe National Park, an extremely steep mountain wilderness where the Forbes River rises. You can drive across Werrikimbe on the Racecourse Trail (4WD only); camping areas are provided at both ends.
Further north, on the Armidale-Dorrigo road (known as the Waterfall Way) are several parks near the village of Ebor.
The northern section of Oxley Wild Rivers, near Wollomombi, 50 km east of Armidale, has camping and day areas at Wollomombi Falls, one of the highest in Australia.
Cathedral Rock National Park is 75 km west of Armidale. It features giant granite boulders on the Woolpack Rocks walk and Cathedral Rock track, where you may also see wedge-tailed eagles and black cockatoos.
New England National Park is a World Heritage listed wilderness 85 km east of Armidale, where you can enjoy a view all the way down the Bellinger Valley to the coast on a clear day from Point Lookout, right on the edge of the Great Divide.
Point Lookout is reached via a 12 km unsealed road, turning right 14 km before Ebor when travelling from Armidale.
Shortly after turning on to Point Lookout road is Yaraandoo, a new accommodation, restaurant and conference complex built and operated with environmental sustainability in mind.
There are several relatively easy, short walks in New England. The highlight is the Eagle's Nest walk, a 2.5 km circuit which drops down the escarpment below Point Lookout, into a misty, wet rainforest where ancient Antarctic Beech trees flourish.
New England is also one of the few parks with accommodation, in the Residence (suitable for groups), the Chalet or the basic Tom's Cabin. Thungutti Camping Area is near Tom's Cabin, while camping is also available at Styx River, just outside the park.
Ebor is the southern boundary of Guy Fawkes River National Park. Just as you approach the town from Armidale, a left turn takes you a few kilometres to Ebor Falls, a series of cascades where the Guy Fawkes River tumbles deep into the tablelands. It's a beaut spot for a picnic. Grab a smoked local trout ($5 when we last visited) and some bread from the Ebor general store. Yum Oh!
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
Visit your local library prior to travelling and borrow a book on tape that's suitable for the ages of your children. We have found this fantastic - it not only keeps the children amused but we discuss the story with much enthusiasm once we've arrived at our destination---unfrazzled and relaxed.
Zeek, Old Bar
4WD
