Time for a cool change? The Australian Alps is a refreshing option from the usual summer hot spots. Needra D'Souza explored the possibilities.
Can't ski. There I've said it. I can't ski. Two left feet, not a coordinated bone in my body and a breathtaking lack of athleticism are to blame. And it's due to my lack of prowess on the skifields I've had very little reason to go to Thredbo in winter. As for summer, even less reason. What do you do in an alpine region when there's no snow? It sounds about as useful as going to the snowfields when you can't ski. Well, as I discovered, there are lots of reasons and none involve ski poles or snow shoes.
Thredbo, and in fact the entire Snowy Mountains region including Jindabyne and Cooma, offers not only a tranquil getaway from the heat, humidity and crowds of the eastern seaboard in summer, but a whole raft of things to do.
The best way to get there is to drive. Taking the M5 from Sydney, it's an easy and scenic 5-6 hour drive via Canberra. So easy, that once you're on the motorway you encounter only three sets of traffic lights before you get to Thredbo. Alternatively, you can fly into Cooma from Sydney where transfers or a car hire can take you the 85 km to Thredbo.
The nation's capital is a good midpoint rest stop and, if you have the time, you can wander around the National Gallery of Australia, War Memorial or the National Museum of Australia. From Canberra, follow the signs for the Monaro Highway to Cooma - a pretty, bustling town with lots of cafes, shops, parks and amenities. The road then joins the Kosciuszko Rd where you travel 61 km south-west through the town of Berridale to Jindabyne. The village centre has a host of shops, a cinema and many access points to Lake Jindabyne, a magnet for anglers where fishing lodges, boats and fishing tackle become the norm in season. This is great trout country and 10 km from town on the Perisher Valley road is the Gaden Trout Hatchery which hosts tours on the hour between 9am and 3.30pm. For further details phone (02) 6456 2077. If you want to give trout fishing a go, contact Lake Jindabyne Trout Fishing Adventures on 0408 024 436.
Heading out of Jindabyne, turn left onto the Alpine Way and meander up to 1370 metres above sea level to Thredbo.
The roads are well-maintained and suitable for cars, motorhomes or motorbikes. As you near the mountain environment you notice the scape changing from gentle undulations dotted with poplars to steep inclines and magnificent snow gums. Thredbo sits at the base of Mt Kosciuszko, which rises to 2228 metres, Australia's highest mountain. The mountain is very impressive, sitting boldly amid the 200 km of the Kosciuszko National Park across the Australian Alps. The Park was affected by bushfires last year but the regeneration that has taken place since is a testament to nature's capacity to heal itself. To enter the Park, you'll need to purchase a National Park permit - the daily rate is $15 per car so if you're staying for a week it is best to get an annual permit for $80. You can pick up a permit from the Vehicle Entrance Station, 13 km before Thredbo or the Snowy Region Visitors Centre in Jindabyne. Be aware, it is a windy mountain road and caution should be taken, particularly if you are towing a caravan.
Once you've settled into your accommodation, whether it be a hotel, chalet, lodge, self-contained apartment, cabin, caravan or a pitched tent (camping is permitted virtually anywhere in the park), stroll about the village, grab a homemade pie from the Snowflake Bakery or a hearty pub lunch at The Pub. At night, a range of restaurants are open serving everything from gourmet pizza to modern Australian cuisine.
Soon, you start to notice legs swinging from the chairlift above, people in waders emerging from Thredbo River, mountain bikers returning from a ride on any of the many fire or maintenance trails within the Park and golfers returing from a round at Australia's highest golf course. And that's just the tip of the iceberg (pun intended). You soon discover there's no shortage of things to do - it's up to you how relaxed or active you want to be.
For a start, you can don your hiking boots and head for the top of the mountain. The chairlift operates every day and gets you to 1930 metres above sea level. From there you have access to a multitude of mountain tracks taking in glacial lakes, alpine wildlife, giant granite boulders, beautiful wildflowers and great views. The walk to Mt Kosciuszko is well-marked and topographical maps are available from the Thredbo Activities Centre in Thredbo Village. Because it is so far above sea level, Thredbo never gets too hot - days are warm but evenings are cool. However, remember you are almost two kilometres above sea level and the sun can be stronger at higher altitudes, increasing the chance of sunburn. Bring sunscreen, drinking water and wear a hat. Also, the higher you go, the more the temperature drops (two or three degrees for every 250 metres you ascend) and the thinner the air becomes, so you may experience shortness of breath more quickly than you expect. If you want to loosen up for a walk at higher altitudes, there are plenty of self-guided tours starting from Valley Terminal.
Of the guided tours, early risers should try the Kosciuszko Sunrise Tour. Starting at 3am, you are supplied with a backpack, torch, muffin and tea or coffee and transported to the edge of Ramshead Range. An experienced guide leads you 6.5 km across the top of Mt Kosciuszko, explaining the constellations and the geography and history of the area, and on the way down, you to tuck into a well-earned hot breakfast at Australia's highest restaurant, Eagles Nest.
For those who love their sleep-in, the Main Range Walk is a full day 19 km walk taking in some of the highest peaks and great scenery. The return bus ride home is relaxing. Firstly, because you can rest your weary feet and secondly, they break out the cheese and champagne.
For the adrenaline junkies, you can try tackling the slopes on a mountain bike ride aptly called the Cannonball Run. Yes - if you're game - you can actually ride from the top of the mountain 4.2 km down via the very steep mountain tracks! Mountain biking on the slopes of Thredbo using the chairlift is coordinated and operated by RawNRG. For safety reasons you must do a Cannonball Initiation before you can take your bike on the chairlift. All riders doing the Cannonball Run must also have a reasonable level of experience and purchase an Expression Session pass with RawNRG which gives unlimited access to the mountain in the two session times. Of course, if you're after a light pedal there are lots of tracks for all standards. There are also organised rides including the Tom Groggin Mt Bike Downhill (easy 1,000 vertical metres to the famous Tom Groggin camping ground and a sausage sizzle), the classy Mt Kosciuszko Champagne Mountain Bike Ride (360-degree views from the top of the mountain while enjoying a glass of champagne, chicken and gourmet cheeses) or the Wollondibby to Moonbah ride (a fun ride for kids). You can hire everything you need in the village or bring your own gear. For more details, contact RawNRG on (02) 6457 6282.
A little tamer and something I've always wanted to try since seeing the movie Cool Runnings is the bobsled - this 700-metre luge-style track winds down the mountain swinging around snake bends, twisting around curves and sliding around corners. It's loads of fun, a thrilling ride and located near Valley Terminal.
My favourite though, is fly fishing good for someone with my lack of athletic genius. It has shaken off its 'older men in tweed jackets' reputation and is enjoying wide popularity with people of all ages. According to Craig Daly from Clearwater Fly Fishing Guides, "It's a great sport for women as the real art is in the casting, which requires a precise flick of the wrist. Men tend to think power is the key but it's not." In the local rivers and lakes of the area you can catch brown and rainbow trout and then take it home for dinner that night. You can organise beginner's lessons with all equipment provided or hire a guide to show you the best spots. For details on lessons and tours, contact Clearwater Fly Fishing Guides on 0417 240 797. Bookings are essential. If you want to drop a line on your own, remember fishing licences are required by law for anglers in the rivers, lakes and streams of the Snowy Mountains. Licences can be purchased at Thredbo Sports (cost: $5 for a three-day licence.)
But for an authentic Snowy Mountains summertime experience, throw on the Drizabone and Akubra and join a two- three- or five-day guided horseback trek. This is no patter around the park; the ride is mountainous with lots of variations. You'll cover 30 km a day on average - traversing streams, climbing peaks, riding bush trails and cantering across open plains; classic The Man From Snowy River stuff. You have two options with these treks. For the full outdoor experience, Reynella Kosciusko Rides offers lodge-style accommodation for the first and last night of your trek, with camping under the stars and hearty meals cooked in the campfire for the nights in between. However if you don't want to forego too many luxuries, Snowy River Horseback Adventure lets you recover from a day in the saddle in a mountain chalet with hot showers and a delicious dinner served by candlelight. "Overwhelmingly, the reason people come on our treks is because they've seen the The Man From Snowy River, which is amazing because the movie came out more than 20 years ago," says Danielle Ternes from Snowy River Horseback Adventures. You don't have to be an expert either: novices, intermediates and experienced riders are all catered for but it's a good idea to have a reasonable level of fitness. "We have all levels of riders from professional horse riders to people who have never been on a horse but always wanted to try," says Danielle. Groups are kept small, the horses are well-behaved and cared for and prices are generally all inclusive. For more details contact: Snowy River Horseback Adventure on (02) 6457 8385; or Reynella Kosciusko Rides on (02) 6454 2386.
Did I enjoy my Snowy Mountains experience? Yes. Will I be back? Yes, but not in winter. Not cool enough for me.
One of the most scenic drives in the country is the Kosciuszko Alpine Way. Start at the section of the route in Jindabyne and head toward Khancoban. The road was built in 1956 to provide access for construction of the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme. For spectacular views of the Main Range, stop at Scammels Lookout. If you want to set up camp for the night, try Geehi picnic and camping area where kangaroos are often sighted, and catch a trout for dinner in any one of the many creeks and rivers in the area. From Khancoban, the road leads to Towong, known for its historic racecourse.
Hugging the Murray River, the road passes the towns of Tintaldra, Walwa and Jingellic with amazing views of the western faces of the Snowy Mountains. Cross Lake Hume on the unique Bethanga Bridge and head in to the city of Albury. From there you can either continue on and cross the border into Victoria or head back to the Mountain. And if you want to know more about the Kosciuszko Alpine Way, touring
tapes or CD providing a commentary during your journey are available to buy from the Snowy Region Visitors Centre in Jindabyne.
4WD
