Not so long ago, Port Douglas, in far north Queensland, was a sleepy little village which survived on fishing and sugar.
It had a beautiful deserted beach, a couple of pubs on a pretty ramshackle main street, a few shops selling the essentials of life, and only slow walkin, slow talkin’ locals keeping the place ticking over. Then Christopher Skase came to town, liked what he saw (cheap beachfront real estate) and, in the mid 1980s, built the Mirage resort and Marina.
Now Mr Skase had his detractors, but given the fact that Port Douglas has now become one of the hottest destinations in the country, he was certainly on to something. Problem was, he ran out of money. Other people’s money.
Today, old Port Douglas is becoming a faded memory. Sure, the two story timber pubs, and a few weatherboard shops are still there in Macrossan Street, while the pretty little church – St Marys by the Sea -- will, hopefully, stay forever by the water’s edge.
However there’s now a shopping centre, more luxury apartments and resorts than you can poke a stick at, boutiques, galleries and several restaurants for every day of the week. Yet Port Douglas retains its slow, lazy, small town character, despite the influx of visitors.
It’s easy to see why so many people want to come here. Port Douglas, 70 kilometres north of Cairns on the Captain Cook Highway, has the Great Barrier Reef, pristine Daintree tropical rainforest coastline and the mountainous hinterland all within easy reach.
Snorkelling or scuba diving on the Reef is an experience which should not be missed. The unspoiled outer Reef is only an hour or so from Port Douglas.
At Mr Skase’s marina, you’ll find all the reef cruise vessels plying their trade. You can choose one of the enormous metal hulled catamarans, which are more like cruise ships, or one of the smaller boats which go to the outer reef, carry about 10-15 people and offer a more personalised day out. Most operators provide snorkelling gear, instruction and introductory scuba lessons. Day trip prices range from about $140-$250.
You’ll need a car to explore the country around Port Douglas. If you’ve slugged it up the wonderfully named Bruce Highway from down south, you’re organised. Otherwise, there are several hire companies in town. You don’t need a 4WD to do the most popular drives. However if you’re going to travel the coast road north beyond Cape Tribulation (towards Cooktown), or take the inland route, a 4WD is necessary.
The sugar town of Mossman is 20 km north of Port Douglas. Just as you enter the town proper is a left turn, to Mossman Gorge, at the southern end of the world heritage listed Daintree National Park.
A narrow sealed road takes you to a parking and picnic area adjacent to the gorge, where in summer you can cool off in the Mossman River’s rockpools.
An easy 45 minute loop walk, which starts at the car park, takes you through this magnificent tropical rainforest, where the thick tree canopy almost blocks out the sun, leaving the forest floor in a deep green darkness.
The village of Daintree is 36 km north of Mossman, on the river of the same name. There’s not much here except the local store and a couple of shops, but you can get something to eat and drink. Daintree is also the starting point for several river cruises. Croc spotting is the idea. Obviously, it’s not advisable to swim at Daintree, or any of the saltwater river estuaries, in this region.
Back track 12 kilometres and you reach the turnoff to the Daintree ferry, 4 kilometres down the road. It operates from 6am until midnight, every day of the year except Good Friday. You can take a caravan across, but north of the river the road, though mostly bitumen, becomes quite narrow and winding in places, with several steep grades.
It’s a great drive, though, as the road snakes through the foothills, which come right down to the sea. The section of the coast is also part of Daintree National Park.
At several spots on the way to Cape Tribulation there are expansive views along the coast. Keep an eye out for cassowaries. This area is one of their last remaining natural habitats. They can reach up to two metres tall, and should be treated with extreme caution. They’re very anti social critters and can do you serious damage.
En route to the cape, you’ll first come to Jindalba, just past Mt Alexandra lookout. There’s a picnic area with toilets, shelters and tables. A 650 metre boardwalk winds through the rainforest.
Side roads lead down to Cape Kimberley and Cow Bay, where another picnic area has been established; Thornton Beach, about 10 kilometres further north, also has a picnic area.
At Marrddja, another boardwalk follows Oliver Creek. It’s a fascinating walk through the mangroves, which takes about 45 minutes and is enhanced with detailed explanatory signs.
At Noah Beach you can camp, and if you have a few days it is recommended. A camping permit is required. It can be obtained from the ranger, or the self registration stand at the campground itself. The maximum stay is seven nights. Toilets, water, tables and a shower are provided.
Cape Tribulation itself is 40 kilometres north of the ferry crossing.
At Kulki picnic area (Kulki is the name given to Cape Tribulation by the local Kuku Yalanji people), a boardwalk leads to a viewing platform overlooking the beach. Walk down to Kulki or Myall beach and you’ll see the spectacular postcard Cape Trib views.
At Dubuji, a 1200 metre boardwalk runs through rainforest, swamps and mangroves. It also has explanatory signs, with details of the parks flora and fauna. Large grassed picnic areas are adjacent, with barbecues, and another boardwalk leads to North Myall Beach.
Cape Tribulation village has the usual facilities. It’s backpacker heaven, and several private lodges, camping grounds and other styles of accommodation are available.
North beyond Cape Tribulation, you’re on dirt on the 4WD only Bloomfield Track. It is sometimes closed after heavy rain, which can occur from December to April.
Let’s backtrack to Mossman. A few kilometres south of town is the Mt Molloy turnoff. The Rex Range Road twists and turns for 33 kilometres up into the mountains, with some spectacular views back over the coast. Turn left on the Peninsula Development Road. A few minutes further on is the old mining town of Mt Molloy, where the pub and the traditional bakery are worth a visit.
From Mt Molloy, you can continue south, through grassland savannah country and do a loop, via Mareeba and Kuranda, rejoining the Captain Cook highway on the northern outskirts of Cairns.
On the way, stop in Mareeba and sample the region’s renowned coffee at a café in town or the Mareeba Heritage museum. Mareeba Wetlands, a 2300 hectare wildlife reserve, is also recommended.
At Kuranda, the famous markets operate from Wednesday to Saturday. Kuranda itself is now one tourist shop after another, but you take a cruise on the Barron River, and see the Barron River Falls, near town.
All of these drives can be done in a conventional sedan. However if you have a 4WD, and the right gear…well, you’ve come all this way, and you’re now at the southern end of Cape York. If you have the time to keep heading north, an altogether more challenging drive awaits.
Cairns/Port Douglas region
Queensland National Parks
Cape Tribulation National Park ranger’s office
Phone: (07) 4098 0052
Mossman Gorge Community Rangers
information on Kuku Yalanji culture and traditions
Phone: (07) 4098 1305
4WD
