Famed as the location for the dramatic, crescent-shaped dunes known as the Walls of China, Mungo National Park possesses one of the world's most remarkable landscapes.
Part of the ancient Willandra Lakes System, Mungo has a rich Aboriginal and geological heritage. Aborigines have lived here for more than 60,000 years. Their occupancy continued despite the lakes progressively drying out and turning to saltbush.
Thankfully, this landscape has been preserved in its pristine form - the park is included on the World Heritage list.
The much-photographed Walls of China is a series of sand and clay dunes carved by wind and water over thousands of years. The dune system has preserved countless Aboriginal campfires, cooking hearths and burial sites. It was here that evidence of the world's oldest cremation, of an Aboriginal woman more than 40,000 years old, was found.
Visitors can either explore the park independently or join one of the excellent organised tours now available. Independent travellers can follow the self-guided 70 km driving tour that covers much of the park. Either camp or stay at the privately operated Mungo Lodge. For something a little different try the old shearers' quarters (now operated by NPWS). Bookings are essential.
Alternatively, for an introduction to the Park's Aboriginal Heritage consider hooking up with Harry Nanya Tours. Approved by the local Aboriginal land council, the tours use only accredited Barkindji guides.
The tours explore a number of sites around Lake Victoria or the dry salt lakes of Mungo National Park. Accommodation is at Mungo Lodge, which has motel-style rooms and a restaurant.
The most convenient access point to Mungo National Park is Wentworth, a colourful old inland river port that stands at the confluence of the Murray and Darling rivers. Wentworth (pop 1,600) has had an eventful career since explorer Captain Charles Sturt passed through in January 1830. With colonial expansion, the port became a vital transport link for grazing properties in the district.
By the 1890s the port was teeming with paddle-steamers and other river vessels. The wool trade created vast new fortunes. Storekeepers became so powerful they acquired their own shipping lines.
At the time of Federation in 1901 Wentworth was prominent enough to be in the last three sites considered for the location of the new Australian capital.
Unfortunately, much of the port's maritime heritage has since been destroyed, but local enthusiasts are busy restoring what they can - and visitors will find many historic buildings - such as the old Courthouse, Post Office and Rendelsham House - in a wonderful state of preservation.
In the Rotary Museum, opposite the Old Gaol, visitors can view a number of displays that evoke the past glories of this river port. As well as a paddle-steamer photo gallery, the museum has various examples of Australian mega-fauna, fossils of which have been found in and around local sandhills.
A new attraction is the Australian Inland Botanic Gardens, a 122-acre park at nearby Buronga, specialising in Australian plant species, especially dry and arid land species, which is what you tend to find in these parts.
Wentworth is also home to the annual Fergie Rally, the largest gathering of grey (not red) Ferguson tractors on the planet. The event is held every August and features a rally down the main street, barbecue and country concert.
Look out for Australia's only tractor monument at the intersection of Adelaide and Adams Streets. The monument commemorates the part played by 35 Ferguson tractors in defending Wentworth against flooding in 1956.
Apart from offering historical tours and river cruises, Wentworth is enjoying a resurgence of Aboriginal culture. The town now has a good range of Aboriginal art galleries and co-operative art and craft shops.
At the Old Wentworth Gaol (1879) you can read the story of Harry Nanya, a tribal elder who defended the traditional way of life long after European settlement. His legacy is alive and well.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
The Australian Inland Botanic Gardens, located at Wentworth are a tranquil experience, especially considering their location! Garden lovers will be amazed at the local plants.
Marge, Wagga Wagga.
4WD
