Bathing belles were basking on the sand, spirited youngsters were romping on the dunes, surfers powered through the waves, and macho males swaggered along the shore checking out the talent. It was a typical Australian beach scene, but these were sun-worshippers with a difference: they were a colony of several hundred sea lions that live at Seal Bay on Kangaroo Island. It was exciting to walk along the shore so close to these beguiling creatures, though the National Parks & Wildlife ranger who accompanied us made sure that in our enthusiasm we didn’t disturb them.
It takes a thirty minute flight from Adelaide, or a relaxing one hour trip by Sealink ferry from Cape Jervis, to reach Kangaroo Island which is the third largest island off the shore of Australia. In fact, it’s ten times the size of Singapore. There are bus tours as well as personalised 4WD tours such as Adventure Charters of Kangaroo Island, but the least expensive and most convenient way of exploring the island is to self-drive. You can put your car on the ferry, or hire one when you arrive. You could spend a week exploring the island but allow at least three days here. That’s not just because the island is so large but because of all its attractions.
The wildlife here is remarkable. One afternoon, while strolling through the Flinders Chase National Park, I glanced up at the stringy barks and looked into the somnolent eyes of a koala whose fat, furry bottom was wedged into the branches overhead. It was the first time I've seen koalas in the wild, and I was as excited as any overseas tourist. By the end of that day I’d watched a large goanna sunning itself in the bushes, a black tiger snake sliding across the road, three Tammar wallabies, paws crossed daintily across their tummies standing under the red gums on a riverbank, and an echidna bristling along the road. Dolphins played in the waves, pelicans flapped on the shore, penguins sheltered behind the rocks, and sea-bellied eagles soared overhead. Because so much of the land here has never been cleared, some species of kangaroo, wallaby and echidna are unique to the Island.
The landscape varies from idyllic sheep-dotted fields of intense Irish green to deserted bays, golden beaches, spectacular coastal scenery and untouched bushland. There are five national and conservation parks on the island. One of them is the Flinders Chase National Park which apart from its extraordinary array of wildlife, also includes dramatic natural phenomena. The Remarkables, a cluster of gigantic granite boulders that resemble a modern sculpture, teeter on top of a huge domed rock. Near the cape du Coedic, where the waves smash against the rocks, is Admiral’s Arch, where wind and water have eroded a natural archway in the Aeolian sandstone. At Stokes Bay, as I squeezed through the labyrinthine tunnel carved into the cliffs, I felt I’d stepped into an adventure movie when the tide came in, cut off the entrance to the beach, and doused me in cold water!
The profusion of wildlife, stunning scenery, and beautiful walking trails in the national parks make this a haven for naturelovers, birdwatchers, hikers and anglers. But if landing one fish after another in this anglers' paradise is too tame, you can ride horses over coastal trails, have a rollicking hay ride in the fields, or snorkel or scuba dive among shipwrecks, while seals swim around you. Before surfing, however, check on conditions because some of the beaches are dangerous.
There is also an indulgent side to this island that caters for gourmets. As you’d expect, fresh seafood is one of the main attractions, especially crayfish and freshwater marron. Kangaroo Island cheeses are becoming popular all over Australia, and apart from their brie and camembert, the dairies here produce Mediterranean cheeses including feta and haloumi. One of the specialities of Kangaroo Island is honey produced by a pure strain of Ligurian bees. Clifford’s Honey Farm offers a tour of the honey room which elucidates the whole fascinating process and gives visitors the opportunity of tasting several types of honey. Those with a sweet tooth can’t resist their honey ice cream.
There are over 80 hectares of vines planted on the island and nine labels to choose from. You can taste some of them along with cheeses and other local produce at the Sunset Winery in the attractive seaside village of Penneshaw. Free wine tasting is also offered at The Ozone Seafront Hotel in Kingscote which is the commercial hub of the island. The profusion of excellent local produce has encouraged a proliferation of restaurants and cafes. One of the favourites with the locals is the informal Penguin Stop café in Penneshaw, which also packs delicious picnic baskets.
In keeping with the unspoilt nature of the island, there are no glitzy resorts or five-star hotels, but plenty of comfortable places to stay at, ranging from four-star hotels to motels, guest-houses, serviced apartments, B & B’s and holiday cottages. Kangaroo Island’s rugged coastline had many historic lighthouses, and one of the most unusual accommodation options are the self-catering lighthouse cottages scattered around the island in stunning locations, at Cape Borda, Cape Willoughby and Cape du Coedic. For those who are interested in history, the lighthouse tours offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Cape Willoughby, which dates from 1852, for instance, was the first lighthouse built in South Australia, and overlooks a turbulent part of the coast called The Devil’s Kitchen.
Nature-lovers from Europe, Japan and the United States travel halfway around the world to marvel at Kangaroo Island's wildlife. What's astonishing, is that so few Australians have discovered this enchanting Galapagos in our own backyard.
For information: www.tourkangarooisland.com.au or www.southaustralia.com
Visit the Information Centre at Penneshaw for maps, itineraries and a pass for the national parks
Story by Diane Armstrong
4WD
