Albury-Wodonga

These thriving twin cities are six hours south of Sydney via the Hume Highway, and three hours from Melbourne and Canberra, a good place to start your journey along the Murray.

Between the two States, on Gateway Island, is the Hume Murray Food Bowl. The Farmers’ Market is held here every second Saturday morning (every Saturday in December), bringing together local growers, producers, restaurants, cafes and wineries. It’s the perfect place to pick up picnic supplies.

The venue management also organises the Albury-Wodonga Region Wine and Food Festival, September 29–October 1, with a celebrity chef cook-off, a foodie film night and an outrageous fashion parade of wearable food.

Soon, setting off to the Murray from here will be much easier, thanks to the construction of a new link between the Hume Freeway at Wodonga in Victoria, and the Hume Highway at Ettamogah in NSW; while a second crossing of the river will connect the Hume Freeway with the Murray Valley Highway.

Rutherglen

For more of the wine theme when you leave Albury, turn onto the Hume Freeway and then the Murray Valley Highway (route B400), and take the Rutherglen exit. After driving through the township, turn right onto Rutherglen Wagunyah Road, which is lined with cellar doors. If you’re the designated driver and can only have a small taste, make sure it’s one of the world-famous Rutherglen Muscats.

Visit one of Australia’s oldest wineries, All Saints Estate, established in 1864 and set in a castle, with the Murray flowing past behind you. All Saints grows and harvests its own fruit and makes wine the old-fashioned way, even using a 19th-century basket press. There are free tastings, a restaurant and a keg factory, surrounded by landscaped gardens.

On the same site, the Indigo Cheese Company is a good place to pick up some handmade cheeses. The delicious new Indigo Blonde is a mix of cow’s milk, goat’s milk and cream.

Other family-run wineries include Pfeiffer Wines, Campbells Winery, Jones Winery and the cheekily named Drinkmoor Wines. Try to time your trip for one of the special spring events, such as the Ride, Wine & Dine, October 7–8. Exercise your legs on this guided cycle through Rutherglen, dropping into wineries along the way. Be sure to stay the night if you’ve tasted a bit too much.

Rutherglen’s Young Bloods and Bloody Legends Weekend, November 25–26, promises to be a terrific two days. The region’s younger winemakers will be hosting tasting sessions, a twilight dinner in a vineyard and a picnic in the park.

Did You Know? The Murray River borders Victoria but is owned by New South Wales. School holidays, stamp duty and smoking laws are different in each State. The NSW 02 area code extends into parts of Victoria and vice versa. People who live in Victoria must have a NSW boat licence to use the Murray. You need a NSW recreational fishing licence to fish in Victoria’s Lake Mulwala, and a Victorian fishing licence to fish in NSW’s Lake Hume. A NSW fishing licence is required for all other sections of the Murray River, even if you are standing on the - Victorian side; however, you can buy one in Victoria.

Yarrawonga-Mulwala

Feel the need for nature? When you get back on the highway, keep an eye out for Lake Mulwala, between Yarrawonga on the Victorian side and Mulwala in NSW. This manmade lake, used for irrigation and recreation, drowned many of the Murray’s greatest natural assets – its river red gums – and the sight of the dead trees is starkly spectacular.

While in Yarrawonga you may like to pop into the Pioneer Museum, which houses flying machines, bicycles and wool presses from the early pioneering days; or the Antique Clock Museum, which contains about 500 pieces, all in working order. But don’t get lost in time – there’s more history ahead at Echuca.

Echuca-Moama

Echuca (pronounced e-choo-ka) is an Aboriginal word for meeting of the waters; namely the Murray, Goulburn and Campapse rivers, while Moama means place of the dead, so make sure you drive carefully.

Built in 1865, the wharf at Echuca was the largest and busiest inland port in Australia, thanks to its proximity to Melbourne. Paddle steamers were used to transport goods along the river until trucks and railways took over the trade. The heyday vibe has been preserved, with heritage buildings on the Murray Esplanade restored to look as they did in their prime. Cars are banned from the main (unsealed) street during the week, leaving room for the horse and carriage rides, and there are no overhead electricity wires.

However, the real delight is cruising on the river, and the Port of Echuca remains the best place to get out on the Murray. Board a heritage paddle steamer, such as the PS Pevensey, or take a twilight cruise during summer. No trip to the Murray is complete without a boat trip of some description, and this is the classic experience.

The best modern city restaurant is Oscar W’s Wharfside, overlooking the river, while the Star Wine Bar & Cafe is a popular spot in the former Star Hotel. Don’t miss the Star’s underground escape tunnel and bar where people drank illegally when the pub was de-licensed in 1897. Also, check out Sharp’s Magic Movie House & Penny Arcade, which screens black-and-white films and sells great fudge.

Historic displays and children’s activities are presented in the port district on the last weekend of every month, and guided walks are available every day. The Port of Echuca Heritage Steam Festival, October 6–8, is bound to be a fun weekend, too. Stay until evening for the sailing of the world’s largest paddle steamer fleet and a fireworks’ show.

Around the corner, on Warren Street, is the National Holden Motor Museum. The red-brick construction is not much to look at from the outside, but Holden lovers will appreciate the collection of restored cars and utes, rare prototypes and historical film footage.

If you’ve had enough of driving by now, head to the bath house at Madison Spa Resort in Moama (80 Meninya Street). For $9.50 you can unwind in the hydro spa pool, relaxation pool, steam room and showers.

Swan Hill

What? A town without a twin? But what it lacks in a hyphen, Swan Hill makes up for with the Giant Murray Cod. It’s worth stopping here, near the train station, to take a photo of this 11-metre long landmark that signifies the popularity of fishing on the Murray.

Nearby, a huge fig tree is said to have been planted by explorers Burke and Wills as they embarked on their journey into the centre of Australia. Today, the towering beauty sits between a motel and a bottle shop.

Take another step back in time at Swan Hill’s Pioneer Settlement, a reconstruction of a 19th-century river port township, complete with people in period dress. Wander around the old post office, general store, fire station and photographic studio, or watch blacksmiths in action. In the evening, hop on the motorised cart for a 45-minute sound and light tour that tells the story of the town through recordings of dialogue and music. 

Mildura-Wentworth

Often referred to separately, Mildura and Wentworth are quite different. Mildura is a major city; Wentworth is the region’s oldest settlement.

Wentworth is wedged between the Murray and the Darling – Australia’s two largest rivers. You can stay at gorgeous heritage homesteads, such as Avoca on Darling, or camp by the river and explore the historic buildings around town in the morning.

Be sure to squeeze in some time at Orange World. Over the George Chaffey Bridge on the NSW side of the Silver City Highway, the 20-hectare citrus property offers one-hour train tours. Learn how to select the best fruit, and have tastings of Sunraysia’s famous oranges and juice. Alternatively, you can stop at one of the farm gates or roadside stalls selling fresh fruit, berries and pumpkins. These makeshift stands are dotted all along the highway. Just remember that fruit bought in NSW can’t be taken into Victoria.

The town’s main event, the Annual Wentworth Cup Race Meeting, is held on Melbourne Cup Day (first Tuesday in November). You don’t have to be into sports or gambling to love the casual atmosphere of these country races.

The Mildura Racing Club also hosts a Melbourne Cup event, which includes kids activities and a fashion parade. This free event is part of Victoria’s 50-day Spring Racing Carnival, arguably the greatest racing carnival in the world. Starting in September, the major race days are during the first week of November. So, buy a hat at the local markets, place a bet and join in the cheering.

The week leading up to the Melbourne Cup sees the return of Mildura’s Jazz Food & Wine festival. The date this year has changed to November 3–7 to take advantage of the long weekend. Traditional and mainstream jazz bands will play live on paddle steamers in the city’s streets, clubs and taverns, and at wineries, restaurants and churches.

The best-known restaurant in Mildura is Stefano’s, in the old cellars of the Grand Hotel. The five- or six-course Italian-style menu changes daily, or pick up some good food at Stefano’s store, 27 Deakin.

If you haven’t yet tried the obligatory Murray cod, or you’d like more wine, spend the afternoon at Trentham Estate. On the bank of the river, 15km from Mildura, this boutique winery is the place to indulge in the sun. After a few samples (careful if you’re driving), dine at the restaurant, then pick a patch of grass outside and watch the boats go by.

You’re in cod’s country now, and the hardest decision you’ll have to make is remembering on which side of the river you’ve ended up!

NRMA’s Travel Planner has directions and you can book accommodation online.

Driving in Twin Towns With towns on both sides of the border, the Murray has a few different rules on the road. Learner drivers can go up to 80km/h in NSW, but Victorian learners can hit 100km/h. Victorians can get their P plates when they turn 18, but you only have to be 17 in NSW. In NSW, P1 (provisional) drivers can go up to 90km/h and P2 drivers can go 100km/h, while in Victoria the maximum speed is 110km/h for all P-platers. A parking fine is generally more expensive in NSW than Victoria.