If you have ever sat in a window seat on a flight west from Sydney, across the vast plains on the other side of the Great Dividing Range, you will have noticed that there are very few significant areas of natural bushland left.
In the 19th century, land clearing was seen as essential to the colony's prosperity, and they didn't miss many bits. NSW was once virtually covered in trees, certainly east of the Darling River; they're thin on the ground now.
Those forested areas that remain out west today are nearly all protected as national parks. They were often left alone originally because they were hilly outcrops on the plains, unsuitable for agriculture.
Out around Parkes and Grenfell are several national parks which, if you have a few days up your sleeve, are really worth a visit. You'll see how the inland used to be, enjoy some great four-wheel driving and bushwalking, and be able to spread out in uncrowded campsites.
Goobang National Park, just north of Parkes on the Newell Highway, is the largest at 42,080 hectares. You can also access Goobang from Orange, Molong and Cumnock on the eastern side.
Goobang is looking pretty rough at the moment because a bushfire raged through it at the beginning of 2002, but if it ever rains again it will quickly recover.
The park is north-south oriented over 55 km on a series of ranges, part of the massive Lachlan fold belt which runs through central NSW.
Goobang used to be a series of state forests, but logging has now ceased. Much old growth woodland - ironbark, cypress pine and stringybark - is still there, along with box and red gum forests.
Goobang is also home to many native marsupials (koalas and squirrel gliders), birds (glossy black cockatoos and superb parrots) and reptiles. 74 species are at the known limit of their distribution.
Access is via several points in Parkes and north of town. Within the park's rugged terrain are some seriously steep and rocky four-wheel-drive tracks - where low range is required - such as the Sawpit Gully track, which runs from the Wanda Wandong camping area in the north of the park, past Caloma Trig to Gingham Gap.
Access to the Wanda Wandong camping area is via Tomingley, north of Parkes on the highway.
Greenbah Creek camping area is on the Sawpit Gully track. Both have toilets (with disabled facilities) and tables.
In the southern section, 20 minutes from Parkes, is the Bumberry rest area, designed for day use only.
While you're at Goobang, go and have a look at 'The Dish', the famous radio telescope complex. You can see it from some lookouts in the park.
Weddin Mountains National Park, 20 km south of Grenfell, is also part of the Lachlan fold system. Like Goobang, it's Wiradjuri country and retains significance today among the local Aboriginal community.
The most famous whitefella to roam the Weddin Mountains was Ben Hall, who plundered the Forbes-Grenfell area in the1850s. He holed up in a cave on the north-west side of the park with his gang, which included Johnnie Gilbert and Frank Gardiner.
Access to Weddin Mountains National Park is via the Mid Western Highway. You can camp at Seatons (where non-powered sites are provided for caravans) or Holy Camp. Barbecues and toilets are provided.
Ben Hall's cave is adjacent to Seatons camping area. Take the climb to nearby Eualdrie Trig, which at 750 metres provides a spectacular view over the plains.
Nangar National Park, 50 km west of Orange, is part of the Nangar-Murga range. Its forests, like those in the other parks, are an important wildlife refuge in the otherwise cleared landscape. In spring (when it rains, that is) you'll see glorious displays of wildflowers.
Nangar's central feature is a high, rugged escarpment. It gets relatively few visitors, and the camping area has no facilities at present. In the dry, you can get there by conventional car, but 4WD is recommended for reaching the escarpment lookouts.
The final park in this neck of the woods is Conimbla, which is near Cowra and accessed via Barry Rennie Road. No car based camping area is provided, but there are several walking tracks. Like Nangar, spring is wildflower time.
Summer is not the best time to visit. It's hot, dry, dusty and well stocked with flies.
When the drought breaks, head out to the central west and see Goobang, Weddin Mountains, Nangar and Conimbla National Parks come to life again. Hopefully, it will be soon.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600.
The Apex Riverside Tourist Park in Forbes is a nice place to stay in this area. It is in a lovely spot, right near the Lachlan River with friendly staff. It is small, quiet and friendly. Have a nice holiday. GFC, Doyalson North
4WD
