For many of us a drive along the NSW north coast is a blur lost in the holiday rush of getting from A to B. But get off the highway and onto the back roads and you'll soon find there are three ways you can explore the mid-north coast. You can dawdle along the tourist drives that ramble around a string of laid-back seaside villages and deserted beaches where the essence of a good holiday is a quiet beach and fresh fish and chips. You can take the back roads and explore the mountainous hinterland and state forests. Or you can take to the water and cruise the waterways, house boating and fishing on long lazy coastal lakes and rivers.
Start your seaside drive at the twin towns of Tea Gardens and Hawks Nest, around three hour’s drive north of Sydney. There is a koala sanctuary here and you often see koalas around the village streets, as well as a resident pod of dolphins that are often seen from the beaches and a few dingos in the bush on the outskirts of town.
Take the coast road to Mungo Brush deep inside Myall Lakes National Park. The park contains the largest coastal lake system in NSW as well as extensive sand dunes and stretches of rainforest. In spring, the heathlands are ablaze with scented wildflowers, banksias, flannel flowers, lilies and flowering gums. Despite the annual human holiday invasion there is an abundance of wildlife as well – kangaroos, wallabies, possums, bandicoots, gliders, echidnas, goannas and a wide variety of birdlife, and there’s a good chance you’ll see most of these during this section of the drive.
The road winds its way between the lakes and the beach, under a canopy of feathery casuarinas, peeling paperbarks and nutty banksias towards Mungo Brush. Along the way, countless walking and 4WD-only tracks spear off over the sand dunes towards the beach or delve into the rainforest to meander around the lake foreshores.
Mungo Brush is one of the most popular spots in the park. It’s a shady, lakeside camping and picnic spot with electric barbecues and picnic tables, where pelicans lazily fish in the shady shallows as black swans gracefully glide by and opportunistic goannas prowl the grassy clearing once the visitors have packed up for the day. This is the place to launch yourself into the water. Children can splash about in the clear shallows and it’s a great place to jump in a canoe for a leisurely paddle around the edge of the lake.
From Mungo Brush, the road continues on just a few kilometres to Bombah Point, where you can catch the ferry (leaves every half hour) to the Myall Shores Resort complex and pick up supplies or have a bite to eat in their restaurant cum café. You can also hire canoes here and paddle around the beaches of the resort.
The road rejoins the highway at Bulahdelah but don't stay on it for long. Just north of town turn off the highway again and take the Lakes Way to Forster. On the way, take a detour to view The Grandis, the tallest tree in New South Wales, a 400 year-old Flooded Gum, 76 metres high. You can picnic here to the call of the whip bird and stretch your legs on a 25-minute rainforest walk.
The Lakes Way winds through Bulahdelah State Forest and along the shores of Myall Lake until the turn off to Seal Rocks. Although the road is unsealed, it's worth the 11 km detour to find a sleepy fishing village where fishermen (fishos) offer shells for sale outside their boathouses and the pace of life is gently quiet. Take a walk up to Sugarloaf lighthouse on the point overlooking the beach.
The Lakes Way meanders on past Smiths Lake to Blueys Beach, Boomerang Beach and Elizabeth Beach and the communities that make up Pacific Palms. On the last Sunday of each month visit the market for some great local arts, crafts and produce.
Forster, where Wallis Lake meets the sea, is a busy holiday resort town with all the tourist trappings, but you can still find moments of quiet serenity, like eating local oysters and fish and chips with the pelicans on the wharf outside the fish co-op. Visit Tobwabba Arts, an Aboriginal art co-op, and watch the local artists at work and browse through the huge collection of valued-priced Aboriginal art and designs. The Lakes Way eventually joins the Pacific Highway 15 km south of Taree.
There are two ‘back ways’ to Port Macquarie – through the hills or beside the sea. To explore the hinterland follow tourist drive eight (some unsealed sections) from Taree to Wingham to walk through Wingham Brush with its resident flying foxes and then on to Ellenborough Falls, through the tiny settlements of Bobin and Elands.
Ellenborough Falls is reputed to be the largest single drop of water in the southern hemisphere. There are picnic and barbecue tables here and a lookout at the top where locals abseil down the side of the falls. You can take the 642 steps to the bottom (we counted!) or follow the much easier walk through the rainforest to view the falls from the other side of the gorge.
The village of Comboyne is perched high on an open plateau and surrounded by lush farmland and rainforest, and if it wasn't for the distinctly Australian bird calls ringing out of the bush, the green patchwork hills could be in Yorkshire, England. Stop for lunch at the Udder Cow Café.
From Comboyne, the road winds its way back down the mountain rainforest towards Wauchope. If it’s a Thursday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday, stop halfway at Blue Poles Gallery in Byabarra. Blue Poles is one of those almost mythic places you all too occasionally stumble across in country NSW – an out-of-the-way place that really does serve good coffee! Not to mention great snacks, light lunches and heavenly cakes – served on a large, shady deck with sweeping views over the valley. Inside is a large gallery, with changing monthly exhibitions. Although you’ll sometimes find local artists, most of the work is by well-known contempory Australian artists, with a focus on surreal and modern art.
In Wauchope, visit Timbertown, a recreated wood milling village.
The beside-the-sea way is to take the coast road from Kew (50 km north of Taree on the Pacific Highway) through Laurieton and Camden Haven to Port Macquarie. But before you do, turn left at Kew and drive through the picturesque farming community of Kendall to find Norfolk Punch 8km along Batar Creek Road.
Norfolk Punch is a non-alcoholic herbal wine made to a 700-year-old medieval monastic recipe. You can watch the wine being made and try some, hot or cold, as you wander through the herb gardens surrounded by rainforested hills. The story of how the recipe was discovered, after being lost for centuries, in an ancient hand-made book known as ‘The book of Secrets’ during restoration of an English manor makes interesting listening.
In Laurieton, the lookout at North Brother Mountain has good views over the Camden Haven and its expanse of waterways and beaches. Laurieton moves at a slow pace even in summer, and you can always find a place on one of the beaches away from holiday crowds. Along the Camden Haven River there are many boat ramps, fish cleaning tables and picnic areas. Chat to the locals along the break wall about the best fishing sites.
From Laurieton, the coast road cuts its way through heath-covered sand dunes, over headlands with views along endless stretches of beach and skirts the shores of Lake Cathie (pronounced ‘cat-eye’). In spring, the bushland beside the road is carpeted in Christmas bells and flannel flowers.
Time your drive into Port Macquarie to coincide with the afternoon feeding (usually around 3pm) at the Koala Hospital, in the grounds of Roto House in Lord Street. The hospital is publicly funded and run by the Koala Preservation Society, treating sick and injured koalas. They recuperate in the tree tops and children love trying to spot them hidden amongst the foliage.
Sea Acres, also on the outskirts of town, is the second largest coastal rainforest reserve in NSW. A 1.3 km board walk lets you walk through the rainforest without harming the sensitive eco-systems. It’s also perfect for wheelchairs and strollers. The rainforest centre has lots of information about the reserve, but there is always a volunteer guide to walk you through. Part of the centre, the Bangalow Café offers well-priced light lunches.
Port Macquarie began as a convict settlement in 1830 and there are still traces of its coloured past discernible today. The Museum in Clarence Street is well worth a visit for those with an interest in history or if you’re unlucky enough to strike a wet day. There are 12 rooms of displays detailing all aspects of colonial life.
Heading north, Cassegrain Winery, just past the junction of Oxley and Pacific Highways, is open for tastings daily. Wander through the extensive rose gardens, have a picnic lunch surrounded by vines or dine at the award-winning Ca Marche terrace restaurant.
Once in Kempsey, turn off the highway again to visit the village of Crescent Head or take tourist drive 12 to South West Rocks. This is a lovely drive of around 30 km, along the banks of the Belmore and Macleay Rivers and through picturesque dairy farming country. At South West Rocks, drive up to Smoky Cape Lighthouse and Arakoon Recreation Area to wander around the ruins of historic Trial Bay Gaol.
A gaol with a view to die for, Trial Bay Gaol dates from 1886. Unlike Port Macquarie the gaol was never used for convicts but was a public works prison until 1903 and a wartime detention camp during WWI. It has been closed since the end of that war and today you can walk through the old cells and grounds. There are some great camping sites in the shadow of the gaol walls, attractive picnic and barbecue facilities with shelter and a kiosk with basic provisions.
Back on the highway turn-off 5 km north of Urunga, driving west for a picturesque 12 km to Bellingen. Rather like a mid-north version of Nimbin but not as feral, Bellingen and the surrounding hills are home to many alternative lifestylers and dairy farmers. Local crafts and art are sold at The Old Butter Factory, The Yellow Shed and the Old Church. There are lots of cafés and eateries along the historic main street. Try the Carriageway Café in the Commercial Emporium for a cappuccino or even a dandeccino (coffee substitute made from dandelion), an orange and strawberry frappe and smoked salmon caesar salad.
From the Bellingen turn-off it’s 25 km to Coffs Harbour. The locals insist their bananas can’t be beaten. You can drive through the plantations in the hills on the way to Sealy Lookout and pick up a bunch from road-side stalls.
An alternative route via the hinterland is to turn off the highway at Macksville and head to Bowraville. The Folk museum on the main street is worth browsing for an hour or so – the collection of local artefacts is huge and you’ll find everything from beautiful old wedding dresses to machinery and restored cars and the historic contents of the old shire offices. The enthusiastic volunteer guides help bring the memorabilia alive. Next door is Phoenix art gallery and café, a supported employment service for people who have an intellectual disability. There are four gallery rooms here displaying vibrant and colourful pottery and paper maiche art – beautiful bowls, platter and sculptures.
From Bowraville you can take the back road to Bellingen (some unsealed sections but much prettier then the highway) and then climb Dorrigo Mountain to this mountain-top town in the rainforest, passing several waterfalls along the way.
Dorrigo National Park is one of the most accessible national parks in the state, and is great for either a quick one-hour visit or you can spend all day here on one of the longer, five-hour walks. The first place to go is the Rainforest Centre, which has an excellent interpretive display on the history of the area and the types of plants and wildlife you're likely to see while you're here. Straight out the back is Skywalk — a dramatic boardwalk above the rainforest canopy that leads way out over the edge of the escarpment. The views of the world heritage wilderness and across to the coast are spectacular.
If you only have an hour or so to spare make sure you do the Walk with the Birds boardwalk. If you have young children who hate to walk, the track to the Glade Picnic area is suitable for strollers and even wheelchairs, and takes around 20 minutes. There are tables, toilets and barbecue facilities here, but be warned, the scrub turkeys are not shy and can smell a picnic a mile away.
On the outskirts of Dorrigo is Dangar Falls, which is also another nice picnic spot.
From Dorrigo, take the Eastern Dorrigo Way to Coffs Harbour via Coramba. There is around 15 km of unsealed road in this section, which is narrow, winding and very rough with potholes you could sink a ship in – but what the route lacks in surface quality it makes up for in scenic views as it climbs the mountains and travels through rainforest and picturesque hidden farmland valleys. Conventional sedans are fine if you take your time, but the road is not suitable for caravans. Keep an eye out for the Giant Tallowwood tree, which soars above the forest at almost 57 metres (185 feet) with a trunk diameter of 3.14 metres.
To explore Coffs Harbour on foot ask for a map of the ‘Coffs Creek Walk’ at the visitors centre. The walk begins in town opposite the Council Chambers and ends up at Muttonbird Island. The entire walk takes around two hours (5.4 km) if you don’t get distracted, but it can be broken up into numerous sections. It is accessible to wheelchairs throughout and includes the regional botanic gardens, Coffs Promenade for an ice-cream or coffee break, mangroves, playgrounds, the Pet Porpoise Pool, the fish co-op, marina and the historic jetty and beach.
For a good view looking back towards the beaches of Coffs Harbour climb the board walk at Muttonbird Island. During the summer thousands of nesting Muttonbirds make themselves at home here.
The ‘island’ is joined to the mainland by a rock wall. This is a popular place for rock fishing but is also one of the best places to have lunch in Coffs Harbour. The nearby fish co-op sells fresh and cooked fish; grab a handful of prawns, a bread roll and a sunny rock along the wall and watch the boats come in.
The Hastings Forest Way is a wonderful drive that provides access to several terrific camping sites.
Head west from Port Macquarie on the Oxley Highway to Wauchope, then take a right turn just past the showground, signposted to Beechwood and Werrikimbe National Park. At the T-junction just over the Bains Bridge river crossing, turn left for the short drive to Beechwood. Turn right on to the Hastings Forest Way at Beechwood. The road soon turns to dirt and is quite winding, but is fine for a conventional sedan. When you come to the five ways intersection, deep in the forest, you’ll see a right turn on to Cobrabald Road. Ten kilometres down this road is Wild Bull camping area, on the banks of the Wilson River. Two kilometres further on, across the river, is Bluff Picnic Area where there are several secluded campsites. See our feature story for more camping and 4WD trails near Port Macquarie.
The Hastings Farmers' Market at the Wauchope Show Grounds on the fourth Saturday of the month (8am – noon) is one of the more recent additions to the bursting calendar of growers' markets around the country – and one of the best.
But if you’d prefer your food ready-cooked then the place to go is Sawtell, just south of Coffs Harbour. There are more restaurants than shops in this town – the main street is lined with eateries – from fine Indian to modern Australian cuisine. If you like to eat out on holidays Sawtell has some of the regions best restaurants.
Sixty kilometres as the sea eagle flies from Coffs Harbour, is the beautiful Nymboida River, one of Australia's (and arguably the world's) best white-water rivers. Between banks clothed in rainforest and untouched bushland there are world-class grade-three and grade-four rapids, and some grade fives (rapids are graded from an easy grade one up to grade six, the most difficult and treacherous). The 50 km length of river lures white-water enthusiasts from around the world and there are plenty of rafting companies that are keen to take you on the ride of your life.
This drive is around 475 km long, depending on which roads you take. Tea Gardens is 215 km north of Sydney and Coffs Harbour is 538 km north of Sydney (via the Pacific Highway).
Koala Zone Reserve
Hawks Nest, on the Myall River
All year - the reserve is accessible at all times
Dolphin-watching tours
Simba 2, Tea Gardens Wharf.
Phone: (02) 4997 1084
Daily, 10am and 2pm
Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse
Seal Rocks
Access the grounds and lookout all day on Tuesdays and Thursdays
Myall Lakes National Park
Camping, swimming, bushwalking, boating
20km from Hawks Nest.
Nelson's Bay Parks and Wildlife Service
Phone: (02) 4948 8200
All year
Tobwabba Arts Aboriginal art co-op
10 Breckenridge Street Forster
Open Mon - Friday, 9am - 5pm
Wingham Brush
Nature reserve and home to 100,000 grey-headed Flying Fox (Pteropus poliocephalus).
Wingham township
All year
Blue Poles Café and Gallery
1086 Comboyne Road, Byabarra
Open Thursday -Sunday, 9am - 5pm
Timbertown
Pioneer village Oxley Highway, Wauchope
Open daily
Norfolk Punch Herbal drinks
Gardens, wildlife refuge and kitchen museum.
Batar Creek Rd, Kendall.
Phone: (02) 6559 4464
Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm, 1st and 3rd weekend of each month (other weekends by appointment). Open daily during school holidays.
Koala Hospital Macquarie Nature Reserve
Lord Street, Port Macquarie
Open daily. Feeding times are 7.30am and 3.00pm
Sea Acres Nature Reserve
Rainforest boardwalk, theatre and ecology display
On Pacific Drive, just north of Lighthouse Beach, Port Macquarie.
Phone: (02) 6582 3355
Open daily. Closed Christmas Day
Dolphin and River Cruises Port Venture Cruises
Two-hour tea cruise, four and five-hour bbq cruises. Boom nets tow you behind the boat while dolphin spotting
Clarence Street, Port Macquarie
Phone: (02) 6584 5425
Port Macquarie Cruise Adventures
Offering a complete range of day and night cruises for all ages. 2 to 5 hours duration.
Phone: 1300 555 890
Fax: (02) 6582 3704
PO Box 1533, Port Macquarie 2444
Email: info@cruiseadventures.com.au
The Pelican River Cruise
Vintage boat cruise down Limeburners Creek, canals and to Maritime Museum with lunch or morning tea
Clarence Street, Port Macquarie
Phone: 0418 652 171 or (02) 6583 7558
All year
Wineries
Bago Vineyards
Tastings and sales, cooper demonstrations.
Phone: (02) 6585 7099
Email:info@bagovineyards.com.au
Cassegrain Hastings Valley Winery
Gardens, vineyards, winery inspections, wine tasting, cellar sales. Restaurant, picnic area, cooperage
Pacific Highway, Port Macquarie
Phone: (02) 6583 7777
Charley Brothers Wines
Innes Lake Vineyards Tastings and sales
Ruins Way, Port Macquarie
Phone: (02) 6581 1332
Long Point Vineyard
6 Cooinda Place, Lake Cathie Off Houston Mitchell Drive
Phone: (02) 6585 4598
11am - 5pm or by appointment.
Mid North Coast Maritime Museum
Relics from wrecks, model ships, photos of early navigators cargo and passenger ships. Historic Pilot Station,
6 William St Port Macquarie.
Open Mon - Fri 10am -4pm. Weekends 9am -1pm.
Hastings District Historical Museum
22 Clarence St Port Macquarie.
Open Mon to Sat 9.30am - 4.30pm. Sun 1pm - 4.30pm.
Arakoon State Recreation Area
Picnic and camping area, Trial Bay Gaol and access to Smokey Cape Lighthouse.
3 km east of South West Rocks near the village of Arakoon.
Phone: (02) 6566 6168
All year
Bowraville Folk Museum
High Street, Bowraville
Wednesday and Friday 10am - 11.30pm, Tuesday and Saturday 10am -3pm, Sunday 11am - 3pm, daily 10am - 3pm during school holidays.
Phoenix Café Gallery
High Street, Bowraville
Daily
Old Butter Factory
Eight specialty art and craft shops and café
Doepel Street, Bellingen
Daily
Bellingen markets
Bellingen Park
Third Saturday of the month.
Dorrigo Rainforest Centre
Interpretive centre and gateway to the National Park. Includes Skywalk canopy boardwalk and the Canopy Café.
Dome Road (off the main road to Coffs Harbour),
Dorrigo National Park
All year
Bunker Cartoon Gallery
Australia’s first and only gallery of cartoons housed in a WWII bunker.
Corner Hogbin Drive and Albany St, Coffs Harbour.
Daily 10am - 4pm
Coffs Harbour Regional Art Gallery
Corner Coff and Duke streets, Coffs Harbour
Wed – Sun, 10am – 4pm
The Big Banana
The first 'big thing'. Guided plantation tours and toboggan ride
Pacific Highway, Coffs Harbour
Phone: (02) 6652 4355
Daily 9am - 5pm
Whale and dolphin watching
Most tours leave from Jetty Beach close to the town centre
Coffs Visitor Information Centre.
Phone: (02) 6652 1522
Whale watching mid May - Nov; Dolphin watching all year
Pet Porpoise Pool
Kiss a sea lion and see porpoises, sharks and penguins
Orlando St, Coffs Harbour
Phone: (02) 6652 2164
Open daily. Shows 10.30am and 2.15pm
January: 18 - 25C
July: 7 - 18C
These temperatures are for Port Macquarie. The hinterland has slightly greater extremes, and can get quite cold at night in winter. The forests also tend to be pretty humid places at the height of summer, and heavy rain is common. The best times for swimming in Port Macquarie are August to May.
Myall Lakes: contact National Parks and Wildlife Service
Phone: (02) 4984 8200 or (02) 6591 0300 for information on camp sites and camping availability or Great Lakes Tourism,
phone: 1800 802 692
Taree and Manning Valley Visitor Information Centre
Manning River Drive, Taree North. Phone: 1800 801 522.
Port Macquarie Visitor Information Centre
Clarence Street, Port Macquarie. Phone: (02) 6561 8000.
Coffs Coast Visitor Information Centre
Cnr Marcia Street and Pacific Highway.
Phone: (02) 6652 1522 or 1300 369 070.
4WD
