The locals like to think of Mildura as a slice of the Mediterranean in the outback. They're not kidding either. Sitting at the confluence of the Murray and Darling rivers, surrounded by National Park and busting with food, wine, history and culture, the town really is an oasis.
As well as extraordinary geography, Mildura has a strong Aboriginal heritage, a thriving community of growers, chefs and artists and a multicultural streak that adds international style to an historic Australian settlement.
Time didn't exactly forget Mildura, but it seems to have treated the town gently. Touring the town centre and visiting prominent buildings like Wentworth Courthouse and Rio Vista Mansion (now a museum of the town's early days) reveals glimpses of the wealth and prominence that very nearly made Mildura the national capital.
The town was founded by settlers who must have thought they'd stumbled on Eden when the lush, water-rich stretch of riverside country opened up out of the bush. With access to inland trade routes, fertile soils and thriving industry, the town grew rapidly, and the infrastructure of buildings, homes, paddleboats and tracks established back then remains at the core of the community today.
The Chaffey Trail, named after the Chaffey brothers who settled Mildura, takes in the grand buildings as well as relics of the early days, including a still-operational engine and pump commissioned by the Chaffeys at Psyche Bend Pump Station.
The town itself is a real beauty. Immense stretches of open river and gentle banks studded with sandy bays and bushland lend the area gorgeous views and an aura of peace and contentment. The combination of water and a warm, dry climate makes it perfect for holiday-makers. The rivers offer everything from day cruises tailored to the gourmet traveller, to waterskiing, fishing and some of the best houseboating in Australia. In town there's rollerskating, go-karting, mini-golf, ten-pin bowling, a wave pool and no less than eight golf courses.
The information centre has a list of local activities and offers a Mildura Attractions Superpass that can get the family discount entry to many local highlights, including the Golden River Fauna Park and Gol Gol Fisheries where you can catch yabbies and learn about the farm's Murray cod breeding program.
It includes discount entry to Woodsies Gem Shop where you can see jewellery made, visit an Aladdin's Cave of gems and crystals and let the kids loose in a crazy maze and adventure playground. The pass also offers deals on cruises, golf, wine and food.
Mildura's cafes, restaurants and wineries have placed it firmly on the map for gourmets and wine-lovers. The region produces yabbies, freshwater fish, berries, olive oil and a lots of delicious fruit and vegetables, which are turned into mouthwatering dishes by local chefs.
The monthly Sunday markets are an ideal way to sample local produce, meet the growers and enjoy local artist's work in pottery, wood, paint and jewellery. Head out of town in any direction and you'll find orchards, farms and vineyards. There are plenty of cellar doors where you can sample fine wine and great food. You'll find big names like Lindemans, Mildara Blass and BRL Hardy, as well as smaller favourites like Trentham Estate, a winery set on the banks of the Murray.
For a more adventurous spin to your education in Mildura food and wine, book one of the paddleboats that cruise the river and provide gourmet lunches and local wines. The PV Rothbury, more than 120 years old, runs day trips to the Trentham Estate winery for tastings and a gourmet riverside barbecue.
Easy as it is to indulge yourself in Mildura, you'll be missing out if you don't take at least one trip out to visit the surrounding cluster of national parks. You could lead your own expedition, skippering a houseboat down the Murray for a week or two exploring spots like King's Billabong, Lindsay Island, Hattah Lakes and the Pink Lake in Murray-Sunset National Park to the south.
Just out of Wentworth to the north are the ancient Perry Sandhills. These massive red dunes are spectacular and amazing to ride. Head north to the Willandra Lakes Region and Mungo National Park where the shifting desert dunes often reveal their ancient secrets. Aboriginal artifacts, remains of long-extinct animals and even humans have been discovered there. Scientists have dated skeletons found at Mungo at more than 61,000 years old - the Visitor Interpretation Centre at the park tells the stories of these incredible finds.
Once you've got a taste the outlying regions, there's really no end to the choices for exploring the Murray outback. You can plan an excellent four-wheel drive trip through bush or desert, or book a tour with local operators to travel by car, foot, boat or horse into whichever terrain - riverside, lakes, desert, bush or dunes - captures your imagination.
The Mildura Country Music Festival is a must for country music lovers. With loads of free entertainment, Poets Breakfasts, theme shows, talent quests and the country music awards you'll never be bored!
Ann, Sydney.
4WD
