A triangle of suburbs to the south-west of Sydney's CBD have been working on their image in the past few years. Once the outer suburbs of Sydney town with lovely terrace homes and sweeping views, they then assumed a cramped inner city persona, but have now emerged with a bohemian retro-chic that draws in visitors by the score.
The area now known as Glebe was originally referred to as Kangaroo Ground for it was here the early settlers, officers of the Royal Marines and NSW corps, came to hunt kangaroos and emus when short of food.
Today, it is a popular and colourful residential area for artists, old time locals, and students of nearby Sydney University as well as the upwardly mobile. The area is known for its alternative therapy outlets, excellent bookshops, a weekly market, and a good selection of restaurants and cafes, and some terrace homes still have great views of the city skyline.
Balmain and adjoining Rozelle, a mere six kilometres west of the CBD are a couple of Sydney's oldest suburbs. When Europeans arrived in 1788, the area was a wooded sandstone peninsula where the Cadigal people of the Eora Aboriginal language group fished in the rich waters. Once primarily the haunt of alternative lifestyle residents, finally Balmain has outgrown its 'basket-weaver' tag and has matured into a well-placed suburb with a trendy village atmosphere, many upmarket restaurants and delightful old pubs, and a thriving weekly market. At the leafy end of Darling Street, the main street, homes also enjoy views of Darling Harbour and the city skyline, while the new Anzac Bridge makes Balmain quickly accessible from the CBD.
Then there is Leichhardt, still with a strong Italian influence and not likely to lose it as some other suburbs have done. The building of the formidable and spacious Italian Forum, a mix of retail outlets and residential properties located around a Roman-style piazza at the Parramatta Road end of Norton Street, has assured this place will remain 'Little Italy' for some time.
Glebe's shopping, almost all of it located in the lengthy Glebe Point Road, still favours the esoteric - so come here for kaftans and crystals, vegetarian food and metaphysical books. To understand it best, you should take a stroll, preferably when the Saturday markets are on, as parking is almost impossible.
Dining in Glebe covers the whole spectrum from Dakhni Indian Restaurant to the cosy yet upmarket Darling Mills Restaurant. Stables at The Nags Head Hotel is fun, and Badde Manors Cafe a benchmark vegetarian establishment.
Balmain's shopping meets the needs of its residents with bookshops, artefacts and high-class boutiques, and a refreshing absence of franchise outlets, as well as wild and wacky dress shops, established antiques stores, specialist delis, beauty shops, flower stalls and, for this is a family suburb, fun things for kids.
Here people cook for themselves too, so even though there is a wealth of eateries, provedores such as Herbie's Spices, Next in Rozelle, or Balmain's About Life, abound, as well as specialist shops such as Simmone Logue, Belle Fleur, the Organic Shop or Victoire. But eating out, whether in a pub, cafe or restaurant, is a rite-of-life in Balmain and the options range from relaxed dining at the popular Balmain Eating House, or Relish at the Balmain Bug, to a bowl of award-winning Thai at Blue Ginger, or great coffee and snacks at Pelican's Fine Foods.
In Leichhardt though the emphasis is much more on dining, and although there is the esteemed Berkelouw Bookshop, with the equally loved Shearer's Bookshop across the road, Norton Street is almost wall-to-wall eateries. Come here for some of the best gelati at Bar Italia, great pasta at Dante in the Italian Forum, and Grappa at the far end of the street, or see and be-seen at the trendy Luna Blu.
Each of these three suburbs are different, yet all are evolving, growing, and acquiring a personality that deserves to be explored. Go west - but not too far. Go inner-west.
Save 40% off the rack rate at all Rydges Hotels and Resorts in Australia. Find out more...
Traveller's Tip If you are in Newtown, you must seek out the Carlisle Castle Hotel in Albermarle Street. My family, friends and I regularly visit this great little pub. It has a beaut bistro which is open 7 days a week and caters for all tastes. We love the food and so do the locals. The hotel has very pleasant staff, who've made all of our visits very enjoyable - well done guys.
Brad, Maroubra
If you want to eat out in the Inner City & take your dog with you, I suggest Cafe Bones at Hawthorne Park Canal in Hawthorne Rd Leichhardt. Dogs are not only welcome, they are catered for, you can order a pupacino for you dog to enjoy while you enjoy your cappucino. It's a lovely idea in a lovely setting.
Mrs R, Ashfield
Try Thai Times 9 at the Sydney University end of King Street, opposite Goulds Books. Walk through the cafe, at the front of the restaurant, to the lovely courtyard. The food is fabulous and you can't beat the $6.30 lunch-time special with 15 different choices. My tip - try the Chicken Long Song or the Beef Penang Curry. Enjoy!
Toni, Enmore
If you plan on visiting Glebe, try getting there on the tram! Sydney's new light rail system goes from Central and Darling Harbour regularly to and from Glebe.
Todd, Balmain
If you are looking for Inner city eating, don't forget Newtown. It is easy to get to by bus & by train. All along King Street there are lots of great cafes & restaurants, as well as the Dendy Newtown theatres. There are good & unusual shops also. Try the cheap and cheerful Italian food at Mamma Marias upstairs on the corner of Church street or for an unusual Greek experience go to Travena Steki just off King Street in O'Connell street. They have fabulous food and on the weekends they have dancing and live Greek music.
Timbo, Stanmore
4WD
