The oldest and newest areas of multicultural Sydney live side by side The Chinese were Australia's first non-European migrants, so it's not surprising that Sydney's Chinatown, located at the south-west end of the CBD, ranks as the oldest multicultural enclave - even if it wasn't officially recognised until 1975.
Spreading itself next door is Darling Harbour, a vast connected series of shops, entertainment complexes, restaurants and parklands surrounding Cockle Bay that was developed through the '80s and '90s. Slick with steel and glass structures, the architecture blends modern Asian and Australian design. With all-nations food and entertainment on offer, the area offers the opportunity to experience multicultural Sydney.
If you've got loads of energy, you can sample Darling Harbour and Chinatown in one day. However, with so many things to see and do, you'll enjoy the discovery more if you allow a day for each area.
Being car-free, Darling Harbour is easy to get around, particularly for families. If you're wanting a new cinema experience, head straight for IMAX theatre and catch a 3D movie on it's huge eight storey cinema screen. If you're after more sedate thrills the nearby Chinese Garden provides a respite from the hustle and bustle.
Families enjoy the regular, free, outdoor entertainment in Darling Harbour's Tumbalong Park. The playground and water features are also popular places for small people to hang out.
If shopping is more your idea of entertainment head across to Harbourside to stock up on souvenirs - cane toad purse, anyone? The Gavala Aboriginal Art and Culture Education Centre gives an interesting snapshot of indigenous life.
While you're over on the western side of the bay, walk further north to the Australian National Maritime Museum. You can imagine a life in the navy when you clamber over the decks and into the sleeping quarters of the permanently moored destroyer Vampire and submarine Onslow.
For an underwater angle, cross back over the bay along Pyrmont Bridge walk and visit Sydney Aquarium. Glass tunnels bring you face to face with everything from sharks to the much more playful seals.
Food is the perfect apres-shopping activity, and you can snack samples from almost any nation at Harbourside food hall. Grab your choice and eat with a view over Cockle Bay. For a more upmarket multicultural experience try Jordons for Asian-meets-Australian seafood; Zaafran for Indian; or Chinta Ria for Malaysian hawker-style food in a brilliantly Buddhist-decorated restaurant, over on the eastern side of Cockle Bay. In the early evening you can see three laser light displays hovering over the bay. Home bar is a good place to sip on gin and tonics while watching. Serious night owls should head for Home nightclub with its multi-level, multi-roomed dance music.
Not to be outdone, old Chinatown offers its own unique late night experience. In the wee hours of the morning you can play spot the celebrity chef, dining post-work, at BBQ King in Goulburn Street or Golden Century Seafood restaurant in Sussex Street.
Like many Asian cities, Chinatown is exotic chaos almost 24 hours a day. While Dixon Street Mall with its lantern-lined walkway might be the official nerve centre, food and restaurants spread the action out. It's an ongoing argument whether Marigold in Sussex Street to the north, the enormous 800-seater Kam Fook Shark Fin Restaurant in Market City to the south or Silver Spring, east across George Street in Hay Street, offers the best yum cha.
You don't have too far to go for a quick snack on the run with three excellent Asian food halls, one of which, the Sussex Centre, offers a slick minimalist setting. These food courts operate into the evening, but to join Chinese locals, queue up at Superbowl Restaurant in Dixon Street or Goulburn Street.
It was discount shopping that first drew non-Asian crowds to Chinatown and the 150-year-old Paddy's Market still continues the tradition, Thursdays to Sundays, with its vast undercover stalls. More than 30 discount outlets also operate in Market City shopping centre directly above, with bargains at shops like Esprit and Witchery.
If you're young, swizzle-stick thin and into fashion, Market City, Sussex Centre and Goulburn Street stock the edgiest of young Asian designs at reasonable prices. Those more interested in traditional design will find embroidered satin cushions, bags, shawls, cheong sams and pyjamas at the Chinese Embroidery Shop in Dixon Street and Market City.
Gourmet cooks shouldn't leave without visiting Burlington Centre Grocery in Thomas Street or Thai Kee Supermarket in Market City. Aisles of exotic Asian vegetables, noodles and sauces are stacked alongside shelves of cookware and crockery. As for children? Cute trinkets in Morning Glory, Goulburn Street, and Po Hong Newsagency, Sussex Street, should keep them amused.
If it's food you're looking for, look no further then the Darling Harbour shores. On the Western side you'll find Harbourside, with restaurants such as Jordans, one of Sydney's landmark seafood restaurants. On the ground level however, there are outdoor cafes, where you can soak up the atmosphere without spending a fortune. On the eastern shore you'll find Cockle Bay, full of bars, top restaurants and a function centre, this is the locals new playing arena.
Raymond, Newtown.
Sydney's Cockle Bay on a Sunday, down at Cargo Bar for a few drinks, a delicious pizza and great service Recommend to both Sydney siders and travellers alike.
Seldridgesmith, Kirribilli.
Try the Emperer's Garden in Thomas Street for the best noodles and great BBQ duck. A real feast for very little money. The Market City food court (under the Peak) has lots of really cheap authentic Asian food. Try the beef rendang at McLaska, or the fried pork chop with egg, which you can get from many of the stalls.
SusieTee, Ashfield.
Chinta Ria ... Temple of Love - isn't that the best name ever for a restaurant. Keep in mind that they only take reservations for lunch, so get there early for dinner so you can get an outside table. Great location, fabulous food - try the Parkers Parcels beef rendang, good music, great decor.
Trace, Beacon Hill.
4WD
