Big sky, big open spaces, wide horizons and huge acreages at the extremities. This is Big Sky Country, the place where the sky is a blue bowl stretching forever. In this region the four seasons are distinct, and visitors have much to choose from - historic places, country crafts, outdoor adventuring such as four-wheel driving or bushwalking, or maybe a visit to Tamworth, the Country Music Capital, the historic homes of Armidale, the cotton fields of Narrabri, or maybe gem fossicking at Inverell.
But this is also where the land has tested people to the limits, to the place where many have had to leave sheep and wheat farming and diversify into trout and olives, emus and ostriches.
In the northern tablelands, the older, colder pursuits continue with apple and stone-fruit orchards and berries, thriving in the chill mountain air. Look for fine meat, some of it organic, and biodynamic wheat, for these are healthy and health-conscious places too. Perhaps that mountain air does something to you. Or maybe it's just having so much sky to enjoy.
The New England wine region comprises several emerging wine districts, including the Inverell, Tenterfield and Tamworth districts. Viticulture is in the early stages with some small boutique style wineries and vineyards established with red and white wine grape varieties planted. The emerging wineries near Tenterfield are regarded as part of Queensland's Granite Belt region.
In this rich area, so many places are must-sees - such as the Berry Best Cafe at Armidale. The owners grow their own berries, and everything is made on the premises for their berry-themed cafe. Similarly, at the Super Strawberry, just outside Glen Innes, the berries are grown behind the cafe and used in the delicious strawberry jam, milkshakes and ice cream served there.
But if fishing's your game, head for Midland's Aquaculture at Guyra and catch your own lunch. If you're unsuccessful you can always use silver bait to buy some smoked, peppered or fresh trout to take home.
One of the area's recent success stories is Gwydir Olives which began a couple of years ago at Inverell by a company using an environmentally friendly olive crusher. An underground cellar maintains the oil at a constant temperature in stainless tanks, and there are plans for tours of the plant, so keep in touch, although you can buy the oil at the shop.
Then there's Premier Meats in the far north at Tenterfield. Here, the Tenderfield Beef brand has become the indicator for prime locally bred and grown yearling beef, sold at this shop opposite the old Tenterfield Saddler's shop, made famous by singer-songwriter Peter Allen
Dutton's Meadery at Manilla, makes this ancient liquor using local honey to create dry, medium and sweet mead which must mature for minimum of two years. At Gwydir Gardens, in Moree, owner John Vanderwerf specifically buys in beneficial insects such as aphids, beetles and lacewings so the oranges and mandarins in his orchard may be grown insecticide-free.
And while we're talking oranges, each year small-town Bingara has a special project. The fruit from orange trees lining Finch Street to commemorate the town's WWII fallen is picked each year as part of a community project and the fruit then distributed to the needy.
But not all the good food in Big Sky Country is still on the tree or in the rivers. Much of it makes its way to plates in some very good local restaurants around the region. In the New England section of the recent NSW Restaurant and Catering Awards, the Cattleman's Steakhouse at Tamworth was awarded best steak restaurant, Jean Pierre's at Armidale won the Informal Dining award, and Lindsay House at Armidale took out the prize for Restaurant of the Year as well as best Contemporary Australian restaurant, best Caterer of the Year, and best Function Centre.
Jenkins Street Guesthouse at Nundle, now called Cha Cha Cha, was named the best Restaurant in a Hotel, while Dragon Palace at Tamworth is officially the best Chinese Restaurant, and Jitterbug Mood at Armidale was rewarded for having the best wine list. The Popular Choice award went to Fiorella's Restaurant, next to the Maynestay Motel at Gunnedah.
The ideal way to really taste the region is if you can make it to the month-long Taste in Big Sky Country festival around Easter each year, featuring regional produce, food and wine trails, a wine expo, and local restaurants showcasing regional food and wine.
With such a wealth of produce as well people who know exactly what to do with it, Big Sky Country will soon need to be renamed Big Appetite.
Take your time to explore the "Big Sky" region. It covers a huge expanse of NSW and has so much to show. The best way to explore is by car and this region is a great place to take the family. Also remember, the best time to visit is during Autumn and Spring, when the weather is at its most pleasant.
Nat, Tamworth.
4WD
