Of all NSW's magnificent open spaces, Morton National Park in the Southern Highlands is among the most breathtaking. Standing at the lookout at Fitzroy Falls the eye constantly strays from the mighty spill plunging off the plateau. Beckoning in the distance is a panorama so grand in scale, so dramatic in light and colour, that you wonder why people ever chose to build congested cities.

For a quick camping holiday from Sydney, this park is one of the best choices. You can walk into the heart of the sweeping sandstone landscape - a total area of 189,531 hectares accented by forested river valleys and deep gorges - and pitch a tent anywhere provided you are more than 1 km from a road or picnic area.

No permits are needed for bush camping. But do check on fire restrictions. Between October and March bans and restrictions are in place and fires can only be constructed in purpose-built fire areas. You need to carry in and out of the park all water, wood and camping requirements.

Gambells Rest at Bundanoon, about half an hour's drive west from Fitzroy Falls, is an ideal base for exploring the major attractions of the park if you have a car to get around. The camping ground is a shady, horseshoe shape that holds a maximum of 45 people - five per site. There's bush on one side, a picnic area on the other and with flush toilets, hot showers and a wood barbecue it's a tad more comfortable than roughing it elsewhere in Morton.

Until bushfire swept through the park about five years ago, there was a camping ground right at Fitzroy Falls. Now Bundanoon is the only official National Parks and Wildlife Service camp site.

Some of the finest bushwalking in the region can be done in this area, where cascading waterfalls, fern-filled gullies, rainforests and abundant birdlife await discovery at every turn of the track.

Some of greatest natural treasures require some serious muscle-burning to reach them, but not so at Fitzroy Falls itself. Timber boardwalks lead to the waterfall and lookouts. Easy walks along an escarpment provide excellent views of the rainforest valleys and several smaller waterfalls. The boardwalks are wheelchair-friendly and the visitor centre offers disabled toilets and parking. It's a short drive to the east and a short walk along the escarpment edge to reach Belmore Falls, spilling spectacularly over sandstone into picturesque Kangaroo Valley below.

The Bundanoon section of the park offers steep tracks for energetic explorers as well as short strolls to lookouts and an historic coal mine. Signposted walks take from one to three hours and include a night walk to a glow-worm glen. Bushwalking, bike riding, birdwatching and wildflower wandering are just some of the activities possible here.

On the sheltered sites of the plateau you find explosions of flowering shrubs among the silvertop ash and scribbly gums. In the more moist gullies are several varieties of rainforest plants. In spring, Bundanoon turns on a brilliant show of flowers.

Winter is the best time to catch the male lyrebirds performing their courtship rituals. The male spreads its majestic silver-brown tail over its head, stands atop an earth mound and sings a loud, clear song for as long as 20 minutes.

At most times of year you will find grey kangaroos, swamp wallabies, snakes, lizards and lots of birdlife. It's well worth dropping into the well-stocked Fitzroy Falls visitor centre before losing yourself in the wilderness for a few days, just to find out more about the wildlife in the area and to check out the best walks.

Though nearby Cecil Hoskins Nature Reserve does not offer camping, it's worth a visit to see its 80 species of waterfowl, most abundant during spring and summer. This reserve, on the main road between Moss Vale and Bowral, offers gentle walking along the edge of the Wingecarribee River.

For a true wilderness experience within easy reach of Sydney, the Southern Highlands are unbeatable.

NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.

 The tracks around Fitzroy Falls are a nice easy walk & a chance for all the family to do some exploration. I was surprised that you can even push a pram quite easily. There is a NPWS shop & they obviously spend a lot of time providing an ecologically sensitive experience, even the toilets are composting. The tracks are well laid out & there is a lot of information provided, a big improvement on my visit as a child many years ago. A very pleasant day & the falls are spectacular. Make sure you dress warmly as the cold wind whistles up the valley even on a mild day.
Chris P, Parklea.

The best time to visit is just after rain in the spring months, when the water is rushing over the Falls, the birds are flocking home and the plants and flowers are all in their full bloom.
Cassandra, Camden.