High on a ridge above Coombadjha Creek in Washpool National Park are two enormous old red cedar trees. The "Twin Red Cedars" they're called, and they stand in the middle of the rainforest - proud but lonely survivors of the axe.

It's a fine irony, then, that at the base of one is a plaque which recalls the exploits of 'The Cedar King', Bill Haydon from Kempsey. He spent all his life chasing the "red gold" on the NSW mid north coast. On his final cedar hunt, in 1965, he was lost in the Washpool and never seen again.

Washpool National Park, and the adjacent Gibraltar Range National Park, are both now World Heritage listed. Washpool contains the largest undisturbed area of rainforest and the most extensive rainforest wild river system in NSW, plus the largest remaining stand of Coachwood forest on earth.

Although Gibraltar is literally over the road - on the southern side of the Gwydir Highway, between Grafton and Glen Innes - it is completely different in character. This is New England granite country, with sub alpine heath, cascading waterfalls and many different forest types, dominated by the dryer eucalypts. Waratahs in bloom in October/November are a spectacular feature of the park, as are large granite boulders, or tors, piled upon each other in precarious looking formations. It takes a full day to drive from Sydney to these parks, but their proximity to each other makes the trip worthwhile. Both have camping areas, which are easily accessible in a conventional sedan. A four-wheel drive is not required.

Access into Washpool is via Coombadjha Road, which runs from the highway for a short distance to the camping areas at Coombadjha Creek and Bellbird. Toilets, fireplaces, picnic tables, water and shelters are provided, but the camping areas do not suit caravans. The Coachwood picnic area is for day use only.

A short walk - about one and a half kilometres - from Coachwood or Coombadjha Creek camping area is an ideal way to begin exploring the park. Marked stops along the way identify different aspects of the rainforest, and tree species such as the beautiful coachwood and bluegum. The track runs along the creek for a while, and passes the idyllic Coachwood Pool.

Washpool's signature walk is 8.5 kilometres in length. Initially, it twists and turns along the Coombadjha Creek, through the coachwoods, crabapples and corkwoods of the warm temperate rainforest. It then climbs through hardwood forest - bluegum, brushbox and tallowwood to the top of a ridge, before descending again, past Bill Haydon's trees, into deep green subtropical rainforest.

It's a fantastic walk, and easy enough for anyone in reasonable health to do. It will take 3-5 hours, depending upon your speed.

The entrance to Gibraltar is three kilometres west of the Washpool turnoff. At the park entrance is a visitor's centre.

The main camping area is at Mulligan's Hut, about 10 km from the park entrance. Here, there's plenty of space and good facilities, including showers, a cooking shelter - Mulligan's Hut, built in the 1920's by a local farmer ? toilets, fireplaces and tables. Mulligans is suitable for caravans, so you can camp here and drive the short distance to Washpool.

Gibraltar has enough walks and other diversions to keep you occupied for a week.

Adjacent to the camping area are the Barra Nula Cascades. After rain when the Dandahra Creek is running fast they're a spectacular sight. There's also a swimming hole at Little Dandhara Creek, next to the camping area.

Two longer walks worth taking are to the Needles, a six km round trip, and the Tree Fern Forest, which is eight km return.

The track runs for an initial 1.5 km from the camping area, then you turn right for the Needles or left for the Tree Fern Forest.

The track to the Needles then runs through warm temperate rainforest, similar to Washpool, where you may see lyrebirds, wallabies and king parrots. The last kilometre or so to the Needles is pretty steep.

The Needles themselves are six separate granite outcrops. Aboriginal legend has it that they are six sisters, who were turned to stone by the curse of an unsuccessful pursuer.

Four different species of fern comprise the Tree Fern Forest. Many really are tree-sized. It's quite eerie standing among them. The place has a prehistoric feel to it, as though there should be a few dinosaurs lurking around.

There are many other tracks in Gibraltar, including several which commence about halfway along Mulligan's Road. A short drive west of the park entrance is Raspberry Lookout, where you'll get a magnificent view of the Gibraltar Wilderness.

Very serious bushwalkers can try the 100 km World Heritage Walk, which takes about five days.

A couple of points worth noting. In summer, this is snake country. Jeans, boots and a stick are required. The nearest supplies of anything are a fair distance away - at Glen Innes to the west and Jackadgery to the east - so stock up and fill your tank.

Washpool and Gibraltar are also ideal for kids, especially in summer. There's no shortage of swimming holes to cool off in, animals to see, creek banks to explore and walks to enjoy. The National Parks and Wildlife Service runs its Discovery programme activities for kids in school holidays.

NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.