Just one hour's drive south-east of the red, dry, dust and bush scrub of Broken Hill is a massive lake system which holds more water than Sydney Harbour.

Within the Kinchega National Park, situated next door to the Menindee township, the first to be settled on the Darling River, are three vast lakes - Menindee, Cawndilla and Pamamaroo - and a couple of smaller ones, which are all accessible for the activity of your choice: camping, swimming, fishing or boating.

For the locals, the Menindee Lakes and the Darling River are a welcome source of relief from the punishing outback heat. For the traveller, the attraction of the lakes lies in the simple fact that they are a geographical rarity. You just don't expect to see this much water in the outback!

The best way to absorb it is to stand by the lake's edge, and gaze out at the tangled mass of branches emerging from the water. The submerged trees resemble a flooded wasteland, but the stillness and the starkness make it beautiful and the birds bring the place to life.

Around Lake Pamamaroo, which is technically not within the National Park, there are plenty of spots to set up a bush camp. You can find a private lakeside site here which gives you good access to the Lake for a swim or a fish, or just a chance to watch some of the incredible birdlife. If you rise before the sun and wait quietly, your patience might be rewarded by the awesome sight and sound of a flock of pelicans swooshing through the water to feed.

Kinchega National Park covers an area of 44,000 hectares. It was once part of an 800,000 hectare pastoral lease held by the Hughes family since 1870. Pioneering explorers Burke and Wills camped at Kinchega and it was here that William Wright, who worked as a station manager, joined their party. Wright was the man largely blamed for Burke and Wills' demise.

In 1967, part of the lease was dedicated as National Park, the same year that shearing at the Kinchega woolshed ceased. This historic woolshed is now a key attraction in the park, and a superb tangible reminder of the huge sheep stations of Australia's past. To get a true sense of its history, take the self-guided walk through the great shed. Even 30 years after the last sheep was shorn, the smell of greasy wool still lingers strongly here.

Accommodation for up to 40 people is available at the old shearer's quarters at Kinchega. It offers a communal kitchen and showers.

In addition to our pastoral history, Kinchega is rich in indigenous history with evidence of Aboriginal occupation of, and reliance on the Darling River. Look out for middens, stone relics, and scarred trees which show where bark was removed for canoes and other implements. Any artefacts found must be left untouched.

There are three self-guided drives through Kinchega: River Drive, Lake Drive and the Homestead Loop. It's worth doing all three but if your time is limited, Homestead Loop is the best pick.

River Drive winds it way for 20 km along the banks of the Darling through the red gums. This is the drive to take before you choose your camp site. There are 35 shady sites available, most of them with barbecue facilities, and some of them with toilets. Caravan access is permitted, but there is no power available.

The Lake Drive takes in the shores of Lakes Menindee and Cawndilla and the Morton Boolka swamp. Take this one for birdwatching and to see emus and kangaroos.

In Menindee itself you can opt for the self-guided heritage trail for a taste of the town's history. The Maidens Hotel, where Burke and Wills once stayed, was badly damaged by fire in 1999 but has since been rebuilt and is very popular with the locals. Try a pub lunch here. Guided boating and fishing tours can be booked through the Menindee Tourist Information Centre.

Once you've admired the watery landscape and taken in the historic sights, there's not much left to do but retire to your camp site and enjoy a quiet swim or a spot of fishing.

NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.

Bird watchers don't forget your equipment! There are over 170 different bird species within the Menindee area, a variety that you won't find anywhere else in western NSW.
Ken, St Marys.