The camping season in the NSW Snowy Mountains is as brief and spectacularly beautiful as the alpine wildflowers that light up these peaks in summer.
Most alpine plants begin to emerge in early summer and peak in late January and early February. By April they have retreated and most campers follow their example.
At Kiandra, which has some of Kosciuszko National Park's best high country camping, the average daily minimum temperature climbs above 5C for just two months of the year: January and February. For those two months, daytime temperatures reach above 20C and have been known to hit the mid-30s. However, by April the daily minimum is flirting with 0C and lows of -10C at night are possible.
Temperatures are kinder further down the slopes. It is possible to camp in comfort well into autumn at Tumbarumba and Talbingo and Blowering Reservoirs with the right equipment and some tolerance for cool nights. Nonetheless, anyone camping in the Snowies at any time of year should have cold weather clothing on hand, especially at night.
Kosciuszko National Park has dozens of official camping areas spread over its 690,000 hectares. In addition, bush camping is permitted virtually anywhere in the park, with three exceptions: in the catchment area of glacial lakes (to prevent pollution): in resort areas such as Thredbo and Perisher Blue: and at Yarrangobilly Caves.
Bush campers are asked to stay out of sight of roads and well away from watercourses. Although many camping sites have fireplaces, firewood is often scarce and campers are encouraged to use portable stoves.
Entry to the park costs $15 per vehicle per day, which includes camping. The big attractions in summer are wildflowers, bushwalking, trout fishing, historic Alpine huts, boating on reservoirs and rivers, four-wheel drives, mountain biking and trail rides.
Pets are not allowed inside the National Park but dogs are permitted on leads at the Paddys River and Paddys River Falls camp areas in the western foothills of the Snowies, south-east of Tumbarumba.
Facilities at most of the Snowies camp sites are basic compared to many other national parks. For example, it is rare to find drinking water. Some sites have creeks with water that can be drunk once boiled. Generally it is safest to bring your own water and firewood.
The Park's best-equipped camping is at Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat, which has visitor information, hot showers, drinking water, toilets, telephones, caravan sites, wheelchair access, electric barbecues, picnic tables and fireplaces. The Retreat is 14 km north-west of Jindabyne at Sawpit Creek.
Other popular summer sites include Tom Groggin and Geehi. Tom Groggin, 24 km west of Thredbo on the Alpine Way, is a large area on the banks of the Murray. Geehi, 31 km south of Khancoban on the Alpine Way, is on the site of the former Snowy Mountains Hydro-electric camp beside Swampy Plain River. Caravan access to either site is via Khancoban only, due to the steep descent from Thredbo.
Three Mile Dam, near the Mount Selwyn skifields in the north of the park, provides good high altitude camping. The dam was constructed in 1883 to sluice ore for gold at the nearby Kiandra goldfields. Trout fishing is now the major attraction.
Further north still, Talbingo and Blowering Reservoirs provide exposed camping with splendid views over the water. For something even further off the beaten track, consider the Cooleman Mountain or Blue Waterholes camping areas. These remote sites off Long Plain Road are only accessible in summer and then only in dry weather (Blue Waterholes) in conventional two-wheel drive vehicles.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.