Derby to Wyndham (698km) or Kununurra (703km)The Gibb River Road passes through the western Kimberley region, a magnificent, rugged place with sandstone ranges, myriad gorges and spectacular waterfalls. An alternative route to the Great Northern Highway, it runs from Derby to a point near Wyndham and Kununurra and had its origins as a 'beef road', constructed during the 1950s to transfer cattle from Gibb River Station to the abattoirs and ports at Derby and Wyndham.
Although the driving conditions can be difficult at the best of times, if you're in this part of the world the trip is well worth the effort involved. The best time to travel is during the dry season, roughly from April to October, although the road can be cut during this time if there has been any hint of rain. As a general rule, it is not suitable for conventional vehicles, however you can usually get as far as El Questro Station in a family car if you're coming from Wyndham or Kununurra or as far as Windjana Gorge if you're coming from Derby.
The Gibb River Road is generally impassable to all vehicles during the wet season and it is not recommended for caravans. Robust trailers are more likely to complete the trip. Note that camping is only allowed in designated areas, most of which are outlined below. And beware of estuarine crocodiles, particularly up around Kalumburu.
The Gibb River Road is notoriously harsh on tyres, so you're advised to take a couple of spares and to learn how to repair them if the need arises. Another thing that catches travellers unawares are the total fire bans that are occasionally put into place en route - you're best off carrying some sort of gas cooking equipment, just in case! You should also take plenty of sunscreen and insect repellent.
The tourist centre in Derby publishes a valuable guide to the Gibb River Road. Good publications covering the route include The Kimberley: An Adventurer's Guide by Ron and Viv Moon (Kakirra Adventure Publications) and Outback Australia (Lonely Planet). Maps are available from the RACWA.
Situated on the sparkling mudflats of King Sound, Derby is the administrative base for the western Kimberley. It's an old town with an interesting history, and with a population around the 3000 mark, it has all the facilities that you'd expect to find in a town of its size. From Derby, you can visit the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago by plane or boat, as well as the horizontal waterfall at Walcott Inlet where the tide surges through the narrow heads at a speed you have to see to believe.
From Derby, the road is sealed for 62km then deteriorates into formed earth in pretty bad condition. Just before the Lennard River, you will see a road to the right signposted to Fitzroy Crossing. It's worth the diversion as it leads to some of the highlights of the Kimberley - the Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek National Parks and Geikie Gorge National Park.
Back on the Gibb River Road, as you descend from the Napier Range you will see an unusual rock formation called Queen Victoria's Head to your left. The King Leopold Ranges rise ahead of you, curving across the Kimberley and mingling with the Durack Ranges in the east to form an enormous horseshoe, and the road begins to climb. Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge is 50km off the road, located along the spectacular Barker River in the heart of the King Leopold Range Conservation Park and is only a short drive away from Mt Matthew, Yellow-man and Talbot Gorges. Mt Hart offers accommodation in heritage homesteads, gourmet country cuisine as well as camping facilities.
There are numerous creek crossings to negotiate along this stretch. None of them should pose any problems except after a particularly bad wet season, in which case washouts will probably have occurred.
This part of the Kimberley contains an abundance of splendid gorges that are worth taking the time to see. About 50km into the ranges, a narrow trail runs off to the right alongside the Lennard River leading to the picturesque Lennard Gorge, with moderately difficult walking trails and plenty of places to swim.
One of the trek's highlights is Bell Creek Gorge, 23km down the road on the left and sandwiched between the King Leopold and Isdell Ranges. The track leading down to it passes a campground on the site of old Silent Grove Homestead - you can pitch your tent here with toilets and showers provided or push on to where pleasant camp sites range along Bell Creek, under the shade of boab trees. This is a magnificent place to laze around in the water and cool off. Toilets, fireplaces and firewood are provided, there are walking trails to the head of the nearby falls and a ranger will come around to collect the minimal camping fee.
Back on the road, you'll pass the Aboriginal community of Imintji, where the store provides diesel fuel only, drinks and food. About 25km beyond Imintji, a track to the right will take you past Mt House Homestead (now closed) to Mornington Station, a long trip with the reward at the end of access to the Fitzroy River and gorges. Mornington also offers basic accommodation, camp sites, toilets and showers and food. Back on the Gibb River Road, there is a turnoff to the left 4km after the Mornington road to Beverley Springs, a homestead offering accommodation and camp sites, as well as access to Walcott Inlet.
Beyond Beverley Springs, there are two gorges about 19km from each other which form part of the Phillips Range. Adcock Gorge plunges to the Adcock River and Fall. Galvans Gorge offers luscious waterholes and an example of Wandjina art. Both have places to pitch a tent, or you might like to drive the extra 14km to the roadhouse at Mt Barnett and pay a small fee for the privilege of camping at Manning Gorge.
Fuel (leaded, unleaded and diesel), supplies, minor mechanical and tyre repairs and camp sites are available at Mt Barnett, which is open daily, 7 am-5 pm during the dry season (Monday to Saturday, 8 am-12 pm and 2 pm-4 pm during the wet season). Opposite, a track leads to Manning Gorge with its declivitous cliffs, waterfalls and crystalline pools. You could easily spend a couple of days here, swimming, fishing or taking the walks that lead to the pools and waterfalls of the upper reaches of the gorge. It's not hard to see why it is such a popular spot.
Just down from the roadhouse, you'll come across the Barnett River where it flows off the Gardner Plateau and, 28km from here, a track veers off to the left in the direction of Barnett Gorge. It is a bumpy 5km down to the gorge, but the rewards are worth it - another beautiful scene, with places to camp or simply stop to boil the billy by the river.
The next track to the left leads to Mt Elizabeth Station, 30km from the main road. You can camp here and the owners offer accommodation and specialised safaris across their property to the western coastal areas of the Kimberley, but you will need to book in advance.
After crossing the Hann River, it's 14km to the Gibb River Homestead (no facilities) and another 40km to the Kalumburu turnoff.
Kalumburu is an Aboriginal community on the King Edward River, near the northern tip of the Kimberley. It is another of those fascinating diversions that make travel on the Gibb River Road such a great experience.
You will need a permit to visit the community, which you can obtain by phoning (08) 9161 4300 or faxing a request to (08) 9161 4331 on weekdays, 8.30 am-12 pm. Entry and daily camping fees also apply - call in at the office or the store when you arrive to be allocated a camp site. One of the highlights of Kalumburu is the magnificent camping area among the mango trees and coconut palms of the old Catholic mission. Note that alcohol is prohibited within the community and that only limited fuel and supplies are available.
The Kalumburu Mission also offers tours of Fr Anscars Museum. This is a 'must see' museum consisting of local aboriginal items, artefacts plus items from round the world and should be booked ahead.
The extensive wilderness of the Drysdale River National Park is nearby, but getting into it is difficult as there are no roads. You must get permission to enter the park via Carson River Station from the Kalumburu Aboriginal Corporation (phone (08) 9161 4300).
Fifty kilometres before you reach Kalumburu, a road to the right will take you to Theda Station (now closed to tourist traffic). This vast cattle station nestles on the flanks of the Carson Escarpment.
Facilities along the Kalumburu road are limited to a roadhouse at Drysdale River Station offering fuel (unleaded and diesel), supplies, mechanical repairs, accommodation, camp sites by the river, showers, toilets and at the height of the dry season, scenic flights up to the Mitchell Plateau. It's open from May to September, 8 am-5 pm.
The Kalumburu road also provides access to the Mitchell Plateau, a remote area known for its glorious scenery (including the sweeping terraces of the Mitchell Falls and the isolated, serene Surveyors Pool) and fine barramundi fishing. Access is via a rough road that turns off to the left 66km north of King Edward River Station and, once again, the CALM office will be able to offer information on the plateau and tips on where to camp.
The road itself is suitable for 4WD only and towing a trailer is not recommended. Carry a couple of spare tyres. If you've made it as far as the turnoff in a conventional vehicle, well and good, but locals reckon that there is no way that you will get to Kalumburu in anything but a 4WD. It is as rough as they come.
From the Kalumburu turnoff, the road surface degenerates even further as it passes through rugged range country with many creek crossings.
Five kilometres beyond the Durack River crossing (good place for a swim), you will pass the track to Karunjie Station, which is now closed. After dropping down Rollies Jump Up (now sealed), it's about 10km to the turnoff to Durack River Station, where camping and basic accommodation are available, but no fuel.
At the edge of the Pentecost Range you'll see a lookout to the right of the road, with views over the Cockburn Range, Pentecost and Durack Rivers and the lower reaches of Cambridge Gulf. Much of this country can be explored on tours which take in the region's less accessible features and allow you to experience some of the runnings of a sizeable cattle station. These can be organised via the homestead at Home Valley, 2km north of the track, which also offers accommodation, camping facilities, showers and toilets. About 10km east of Home Valley, you'll come to the Pentecost River crossing which is generally easy to negotiate. Don't go swimming here though - there are saltwater crocodiles around.
El Questro Station, 16km off the road in the foothills of the Durack Ranges, is a famous and interesting place. The property encompasses some of the Gibb River Road's highlights, such as Zebedee Springs with its thermal pools surrounded by palms, and the Chamberlain, Moonshine and El Questro Gorges. Still at El Questro but further down the road lies Emma Gorge, a well-known feature of the Kimberley with red cliffs plummeting to meet tranquil waters. It's a beautiful spot with a sobering majesty, and is worth seeing.
There are plenty of other things at El Questro to keep you occupied, such as swimming, fishing, boating and various tours. You can camp along the river, take up one of a variety of accommodation options or pay a fee if you want to use the facilities without staying the night. Fuel and supplies are available to all comers.
From Emma Gorge, it is 24km along a decent bit of road to the junction with the Great Northern Highway. Here you have the option of heading north to Wyndham or east to Kununurra on good bitumen roads. Located on Cambridge Gulf at the end of the Great Northern Highway, Wyndham is the northernmost port in WA. Isolated and very much a frontier town, it's a little place with a lot of history and, like so many of the Kimberley towns, well worth seeing. It offers the usual facilities for travellers. Five Rivers Lookout east of town has magnificent 'eagle eye' views over the sprawling mudflats and rivers - you'll be able to see the country you've just crossed from a different perspective.
Kununurra on the other hand is the centre of one of the largest diamond mining industries in the world, as well as the hub of the eastern Kimberley region and the Ord River Scheme. Begun during the 1960s and centred around the massive Lakes Argyle and Kununurra, the Scheme irrigates over 72,000ha of land that was once considered unproductive. Melons, mangoes, pawpaws, hay, maize, peanuts, soybeans, bananas and sunflowers are currently grown here and transform the landscape - if you were expecting to see arid country, you're in for a surprise. Kununurra is, not surprisingly, something of a haven for weary travellers and offers a wide range of facilities.
Useful Phone Numbers |
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| Automobile Associations | RACWA Derby | (08) 9191 1256 |
| RACWA Fitzroy Crossing | (08) 9191 5005 | |
| RACWA Kununurra | (08) 9169 1556 | |
| RACWA Wyndham | (08) 9161 1305 | |
| National Parks | Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) Kununurra | (08) 9168 4200 |
| Police | Derby | (08) 9191 1444 |
| Fitzroy Crossing | (08) 9191 5000 | |
| Kununurra | (08) 9166 4530 | |
| Road Conditions | WA | 1800 013 314 |
| Services | Beverley Springs Station | (08) 9191 4646 |
| Drysdale River Station | (08) 9161 4326 | |
| Durack River Station | (08) 9161 4324 | |
| El Questro Station | (08) 9169 1777 | |
| Home Valley Station | (08) 9161 4322 | |
| Imintji Store | (08) 9191 7471 | |
| Kalumburu Store | (08) 9161 4304 | |
| Kalumburu Mission (Fr Anscars Museum) | (08) 9161 4333 | |
| Mornington Station | (08) 9191 7406 | |
| Mt Barnett Roadhouse | (08) 9191 7007 | |
| Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge | (08) 9191 4645 | |
| Tourist Information | Derby | (08) 9191 1426 |
| Kununurra | (08) 9168 1177 |
All information quoted on this site is correct as at December 2001 however the information could change without notice and National Roads and Motorists' Association Limited cannot accept responsibility for any consequences whatsoever.
When travelling in spinifex country, take a detergent bottle full of water with you. By squirting the water on a fire under the car, you have a better chance of putting it out than using a fire extinguisher.
Cheryl, Greenwood WA.
4WD
