New England's granite belt contains some of the most rugged country you'll find anywhere, and there's no better example than Sundown National Park.
The park is an amalgam of three old sheep grazing properties whose owner's were eventually beaten by the country they occupied. There is lots of evidence of those times, like rusting remnants of the 14-strand fence that the graziers erected in a futile attempt to keep dingoes away from the sheep. Regardless of the height of the fence, the dogs learned to climb it - all that mutton was too big an incentive. In this country, fencing is heartbreaking work. Here and there you can see where the old people had even chipped away at solid granite to try and get a post in!
Over the years there were various attempts at mining too, but once again, success was denied. The sheer remoteness of the deposits meant that ultimately, the mines just weren't economically viable.
Today, Sundown National Park's northern end is accessible only to 4WD vehicles, or bushwalkers willing to take on the 20 km trek to the Severn River. Even in a reasonably capable vehicle it takes a good couple of hours to cover the distance, particularly if you want to stop in at Red Rock Gorge along the way.
Red Rock is named after the red granite found in the area. There is a waterfall at one end, but this flows only after good rain. From the car park it's just a short walk through the cypress pines to the lookout platform, and it's well worth it.
Your vehicle needs to be in top condition mechanically to contemplate Sundown as a destination. Though getting to a good camp site along the Severn River isn't all that difficult, visiting other features can certainly be slow and heavy going. Low-range is usually the way to go, mainly in second or third gear for most of the way, though there will be times you'll need first. You can easily take longer than a couple of hours, depending on how many stops you make along the way.
Once on the river there are plenty of camping options. Most popular is the Burrow's Waterhole site, with pit toilets and nice clear, level spots along the bank. For the more adventurous though, there's Rats Castle, named for a particularly striking geological feature. There are no amenities there or at Reedy Waterhole, upstream from Burrow's. Access is also more difficult. Neither of these camp sites are the place to take a vehicle that is not up to the job, with at least one deep water crossing and some serious suspension twisting track work to contend with. But once at Rats Castle, there's excellent fishing for Murray cod and yellowbelly in a big waterhole downstream from the camp.
As in most national parks, chainsaws and generators are banned, and firewood is scarce close to the main camp sites. (The best idea is to pick up your wood on the way in.) There are no rubbish bins here either and the NPWS ask you to take your rubbish out with you, rather than bury it, as was the practice in the old days. Permits are of the self-registration kind, and you fill them out at the entrance to the Park.
Apart from a healthy population of native animals, Sundown also has its share of ferals, with goats, deer and wild pigs a common sight. You will often see goats on distant hillsides on your way in or out of the park.
It's not hard to spend a few days in Sundown. You need to be completely self-sufficient, because this is a wilderness camp and it should be enjoyed as such. There are plenty of driving opportunities here for the dedicated four-wheeler, but these should be viewed as a means to an end, rather than challenges as such. The track in and out of Rats Castle is a case in point, with many of the steeper sections made up of loose shale deserving respect. Like most wild places in this country, Sundown should never be underestimated.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
While out on the beaten track, make sure you stop to enjoy the scenery. There is plenty of wildlife in the area and the kids will enjoy the break. Tim, Williamstown.
4WD
