The Deua and Wadbilliga National Parks (and the State Forests that border them), make for some great four-wheel driving in very spectacular country.
However, it's by no means easy four-wheeling, so this area in the rugged southwest of NSW is best visited in tandem with at least one other vehicle.
For the same reason, visitors should have topographic maps and know how to read them. In the maze of forestry roads which may be encountered, a GPS is also a definite safety plus. Because there's always a danger of damage which may immobilise the vehicle, and taking tracks that lead to becoming lost, extra food and water - even for a day trip - is strongly recommended. If you have access to a Satphone, take that as well.
Because temperatures in these mountains can plummet to freezing point (obviously more so in winter than other times), take extra warm clothing and the wherewithal to light a fire if you have to.
All this is not designed to put you off. Serious four-wheel driving requires serious preparation. If you've done the right thing before you leave, what could be a potentially life-threatening situation becomes simply an inconvenience - perhaps even an enjoyable one!.
The mountain country behind Moruya and Bodalla is true wilderness. It has views to take your breath away, and for the fit, excellent bushwalking opportunities.
Apart from the usual cedar plundering, the extremely inhospitable nature of the terrain meant that the area wasn't attractive to pastoralists. Then in the last part of the 19th Century, the Bendethra Valley was cleared to provide a resting-place for cattle driven from the Monaro Plains near Canberra to Bega, from where they'd be shipped to either Sydney or Melbourne. Settlement followed, but the last outpost, Bendethra Station, was abandoned over sixty years ago. There's very little evidence now that it ever existed, apart from some foundations, exotic trees and the remains of the cattle yards.
Bendethra is another of those Aussie 4WD icons, and is easiest reached from Moruya, on the coast. Take the Araluen road, making your way to Little Sugarloaf Road, which will take you up into the mountains, through thick forest.
Watch out for the sign to Hanging Mountain - it's a 700 metre diversion to the lookout, with its superb views right out to sea, and worth the time if you have it. Continue along Little Sugarloaf Road, keeping watch for timber jinkers as you pass through logging areas, until sighting the Merricumbene Trail. This leads into Deau National Park and Bendethra Mountain. Take care. A lot of this trail is not only very steep, but rocky into the bargain.
Turn right onto the Bendethra Trail. Descending into the valley, the trail is not particularly steep, but should be tackled in low range. Extreme caution should be exercised if it's been raining, as the clay surface provides as much traction as the surface of a billiard ball.
The river crossings that follow should pose no problems if you use low range second gear, but once again, if there's been heavy rain, shouldn't even be attempted. The river will be a dangerous, raging torrent.
If successful in fording, you'll soon see Bendethra homestead.
It's possible to four-wheel drive deeper into the valley before turning back, but watch the river crossings. One in particular is quite deep. Remember to always walk the fords before driving them. This way, you can plan out your route and avoid deep holes or underwater obstacles.
Alternatively, you can walk two hours to the Bendethra Caves. Take a torch.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
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