The Simpson Desert Crossing consists of a mixture of clay-topped and sand tracks and is definitely for 4WD vehicles only. Crossing some of the most desolate and remote country on the continent, it is not for the faint-hearted, nor is it for the ill-prepared! Being stuck out there could easily cost you your life, so you will need to be extremely careful when planning and preparing for the trip. A number of old shot lines and rig roads criss-cross the desert, but the safest and easiest route is the one described below. The crossing usually takes a minimum of three to four days and you're advised to take only the recommended tracks.
The main feature of the desert is the series of parallel sand dunes, stretching for some 200-300km and running south-east to north-west. You should exercise extreme care where soft sand has created ridges on dune tops, as the drop on the other side can be severe. Because of this, it's recommended that you traverse the desert from west to east.
Another feature of the Simpson, particularly in the central and eastern sections, is a series of clay playa lakes or clay-based pans, many of which have a salt crust. Where the track crosses them, take care to check the firmness of the surface even in dry conditions because the thin crust covers mud that is permanently soft. When wet, these lakes become impenetrable and vehicles often bog. Do not attempt the desert crossing after rain!
During the 1960s, oil and gas exploration occurred throughout the desert and the tracks cut by the exploration companies are the means of access for travellers today. These tracks are no longer maintained, hence the difficulty of the crossing.
You will need a Desert Parks Pass for this trip, which contains a good set of maps for your journey. Good maps are essential, 1:250,000 topographical maps being particularly useful.
Most of all, you should make arrangements with a reliable friend to call on a specified time and date. If contact is not made this person could raise the alarm and call authorities.
There are no facilities along the route, so adequate food, water and fuel supplies must be carried for the entire journey. It is imperative that you pack your vehicle to create as low a centre of gravity as possible -- stowing heavy goods on the roof rack could easily cause your vehicle to roll. It will also be necessary to deflate your tyres to about 15psi to cope with the dunes (don't forget to inflate them afterwards!). And if you're planning to have campfires on the trip, bring your own wood.
Access to the starting point of the trek at Dalhousie Springs is via Oodnadatta or Finke and Mount Dare Homestead. A series of marked tracks have been established within the parks of the Simpson Desert. The Desert Parks Pass kit contains detailed information in relation to these, offering practical advice as well as a deeper understanding of the area.
Dalhousie Springs is an oasis in the centre of Witjira National Park. Comprising a group of about 80 mound springs, Dalhousie is a popular camping area and swimming in the warm waters is an experience not to be missed! It's a romantic spot at dawn and dusk, with the surrounding date palms silhouetted against the sky. You could easily spend a couple of days here, relaxing in the springs and taking a look at the ruins of Dalhousie Homestead, 12km south on the Oodnadatta road. Toilet and rubbish facilities are provided at the springs, but you should bring your own firewood.
The 3,656,200ha national park is a fascinating place. Apart from the seemingly endless red sand Dunes it contains salt lakes, tracts of spinifex and gidgee woodland and, after rain, stunning and unexpected bursts of colourful wildflowers. Wildlife is surprisingly abundant - you'll often spot grass wrens, zebra finches, bustards, hopping mice, marsupial moles, woma pythons and dragon lizards.
Leaving the springs, the track climbs to a tableland of gibber plains and, after 20km, runs across a swamp which is impassable after rain. It then crosses a sandy plain and several claypans before reaching the Simpson Desert. The sand dunes, which have been gradually swelling from the plain, become more noticeable.
Purni Bore is to your right, surrounded by several pools suitable for swimming in although the water in the main pool is near boiling point. Check temperatures before you dive in! The runoff from the bore has created a magical wetlands area, home to a number of waterbirds as well as passing camels, dingoes, rabbits etc and although there are no facilities, you can pitch your tent here if you feel so inclined.
Leaving Purni Bore, keep following the Rig Road. The Mokari airstrip is 14km from the turnoff, just as the track begins to curve around to the left. The dunes become larger, often with a severe drop on the other side, and there are a lot of sand drifts around - take care. Keep veering right on the Rig Road and ignore any turnoffs that you might see. Not far from here, you'll pass the site of the abandoned Macumba Well.
After Macumba, the track turns east again across low and closely spaced dunes, entering the Simpson Desert Conservation Park after 75km. Not far from here is the Lone Gum, as its name suggests a solitary coolibah tree, alien to its surroundings and an amazing sight.
In this area, the dunes are noticeably more yellow. This section of the track is one of the worst areas for dune mobility and deterioration of the clay surface, so be prepared to experience some bad washouts. Further on, the track runs past some small lunettes and the first large playa lake. Poolowanna Well, an abandoned exploration site, is a short way off the right of the track.
After winding around playa lakes for over 100km, the track reaches a junction with the K1 Line. This can be a tough stretch, as many dunes in this section have sand drifting over the track at crests, and washouts and gullying often occur. Turn left - in 20km you'll re-enter the conservation park. Another 60km or so will bring you to Poeppel Corner where the borders of South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory meet. This point is signified by a concrete post and many passers-by have taken a turn at sitting on it, thereby straddling all three States.
Heading north-west from Poeppel Corner, you will travel through the Northern Territory for 22km before turning right on to the QAA Line, into Queensland and the Simpson Desert National Park. Featuring higher dunes, wide clay flats and salt lakes, the QAA Line is a sandy track on which the dune crossings are generally more demanding.
About 90km from Poeppel Corner, the track crosses the antiquated rabbit-proof fence and further on you will come to the floodplain of Eyre Creek, which occasionally carries flood waters through the desert and can be difficult to cross. In the unlikely event of this happening, there is a 59km flood detour to the north of the main crossing.
Right on the edge of the desert lies a final, spectacular feature of the Simpson - an enormous sandhill known as Big Red. It can be difficult to cross coming from the west (nothing compared with what you have to contend with coming from the Birdsville side!) but there are deviations slightly to the north which make things a little easier. This is a challenge that most four-wheel drivers are happy to attempt (it's nice to be able to boast about it later).
From here, it's an effortless 36km into Birdsville, where you may choose to head south along the Birdsville Track.
Useful Phone Numbers |
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| Automobile Associations | RAA Marla | (08) 8670 7001 |
| RACQ Birdsville | (07) 4656 3226 | |
| National Parks | Desert Parks District | (08) 8648 5300 |
| Desert Parks Hotline | 1800 816 078 | |
| Police | Birdsville | (07) 4656 3220 |
| Marla | (08) 8670 7020 | |
| Oodnadatta | (08) 8670 7805 | |
| Road Conditions | SA | 1300 361 033 |
In many parts of the Simpson, particularly the middle stretch of the French Line, you'll be lucky to cover 20 km in an hour. Allow at least three days to cross the desert. Bill, Byabarra
Do yourself a favour before testing out your 4WD on the French Line - visit the website first - http://www.simpsondesert.fl.net.au and learn how the French Line was constructed. KJ Murphy
4WD
