The Savannah Way follows the Gulf of Carpentaria across the top of Australia, roughly tracing the line cut by explorer Ludwig Leichhardt during his travels in 1845. The name is a fairly recent one - it has been known in the past both as the Great Top Road and the Gulf Track. 'The Savannah Way' actually refers to a route that stretches from Darwin to Cairns - part of the trek described here is called the Leichhardt Track!
Whatever its name, this is a magnificent trek with stunning tropical scenery, wetlands and unusual rock formations and when the barramundi are biting, it's a magical place to fish.
The route is passable to all vehicles (including caravans) during the dry season, generally late April to early October. It is also navigable during what's called 'the stormy season' from October to January. It is advisable to take a 4WD or high clearance vehicle, although it may pose problems for some caravans at this time. The stormy season lives up to its name - roads are often cut for a day or two following torrents of afternoon rain, but if you're not in a hurry it has its rewards. The Gulf Savannah Tourist Organisation can advise as to road conditions during this time. It's best not to attempt the route from January to March in any vehicle.
You won't need any permits to travel along the Savannah Way. Generally, you can camp along rivers and creeks but if you're planning to set up camp away from the road, ask permission from the relevant landholder if possible. As all rivers in the region are inhabited by both saltwater and freshwater crocodiles, it goes without saying that you should avoid swimming in them. Most areas where they're likely to be lurking are signposted, but be careful.
Extremely useful information is available from the Gulf Savannah Tourist Organisation in Cairns and the Katherine Region Tourist Association in Katherine.
A small community, Roper Bar is situated at the tidal reach of the Roper River, at the place where Leichhardt first crossed it. A welcome sign boasts a town population of 13, as well as '1 rottweiler, 1 jack russell, 1 guard dog, 1 cockatoo'.
The Roper is a good base for people who want to go fishing, and the general store is the last place where you can stock up on fuel (leaded, unleaded and diesel), food and water before Borroloola. Open Monday to Saturday, 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 1pm-6pm, the store also offers motel accommodation, a camping area and local touring and fishing information. Note that alcohol is not available at Roper Bar and is prohibited in the surrounding Aboriginal communities.
The road heading out of Roper Bar is good, graded two or three times a year and wide enough for two cars. It winds south then north through a series of ranges, past the Aboriginal community of Ngukurr (no facilities) and over various creeks before arriving at the ruins of St Vidgeon Homestead. Not far from the ruins is the beautiful Lomarieum Lagoon, a small paradise with plentiful birdlife and carpets of waterlilies. This is a lovely place to stop and boil the billy or set up camp for the night.
Eighteen kilometres from here, a road leads off to the right to Borroloola. Take the turn or you'll end up at Port Roper, an Aboriginal community on the Limmen Bight that you'll need permission to enter.
It's 69km to the turnoff to the Limmen Bight River fishing camp, a 4WD track that follows the Cox River to its junction with the Limmen Bight River. You'll cross the Limmen further down the main track, but for some good fishing you can't go past the camp. There are boat ramps and places to pitch the tent here but you should notify the caretakers on arrival. Watching the sun set over the river is wondrous.
Another 22km down the Savannah Way will bring you to the Limmen Bight River crossing -- you'll need to exercise some care here as the approaches are steep. The scenery around Nathan River Station is little short of spectacular as the road runs through the foothills of the Tawallah Ranges and there are plenty of good places to camp.
You'll come to a T-intersection about 100km from Nathan River - right to Cape Crawford, left to Borroloola. Turn left. In 50km you'll join the sealed Carpentaria Highway and from here, it's about 30km to Borroloola.
Back in the 1880s, the outpost of Borroloola had a reputation as a bit of a redneck town, peopled with all sorts of strange characters who worked at the port and on the surrounding stations. Today, the town is a fishing port and regional centre for local properties and mines. Facilities include a hotel, various forms of accommodation, fuel, mechanical repairs, general stores, boat hire, police, medical centre, post office and banking agencies.
Overall this stretch is a good, wide, earth-formed carriageway. You'll need to take care at the creek crossings - some of them can be particularly nasty after rain.
For the first 100km or so, the road is reasonably straight and runs through densely timbered areas. The first river of any note that you'll cross is the Wearyan; about 15km further, just past the Foelsche River, you will come to a T-intersection where you should turn right to Wollogorang. The Robinson River is about 35km further on. Some of the stations around this part of the Gulf allow camping and fishing on their land and in their rivers. All they ask is that you report to the relevant homestead upon arrival. Ask around at Borroloola for details.
After crossing the Calvert River, the country changes. The track winds up through a small range, then catches you unawares as it plummets into the valley on the far side. Once in the valley, it's only about 10km to Wollogorang.
Wollogorang Roadhouse is situated about 5km from the Queensland border on the enormous Wollogorang Station, a cattle station which takes in approximately 7000km² of Gulf country. Open daily (6 am-9 pm), its facilities include fuel (unleaded and diesel), accommodation, a licensed restaurant, supplies and some camp sites. The roadhouse can also organise safaris and fishing tours, or you may like to get off the beaten track by yourself. A 4WD track cuts across the property to the Tully and Massacre Inlets on the Gulf coast - magnificent, pristine places where the fishing is good and there are plenty of places to camp. This track is only accessible by permission from the roadhouse and a nominal fee will be charged. Watch out for saltwater crocodiles!
The section of track between Wollogorang and Doomadgee recently had huge amounts of money spent on it in upgrading and is now a fairly decent bit of road, although potholes can still take you by surprise after rain.
After crossing the Queensland border, follow the Burketown signs and bear right. It's 54km from the border to the leafy Hell's Gate Roadhouse, where you'll find fuel (unleaded and diesel), basic accommodation and a limited licensed restaurant.
From Hell's Gate, it's 81km to the Aboriginal community of Doomadgee where you can buy food and fuel supplies. It's open Monday and Wednesday to Friday, 8 am-4.30 pm, Tuesday, 10 am-4.30 pm and Saturday, 11 am-12.30 pm.
Eight kilometres past Doomadgee, a road leads off to the right signposted to Bowthorn Station. This is a rough but pretty 4WD track that will eventually take you to Lawn Hill National Park. An easier access route to the park is about 60km further on, across the Gregory River and roughly 9km beyond Tirranna Roadhouse. Note that Tirranna has closed down - for fuel and supplies you'll have to push on towards Burketown, another 34km away. If you're heading for Lawn Hill, turn right at the intersection with the Wills Developmental Road, then right again when you get to Gregory Downs some 89km later. This road is suitable for all vehicles and caravans.
Lawn Hill is a serene place on the eastern escarpments of the Barkly Tableland. The park is a highlight of this trek and shouldn't be missed. It offers some superb places to pitch a tent; alternatively, camp sites are available at Adel's Grove, a homestead just outside the park's boundary which also has supplies and fuel (unleaded and diesel). Canoes are available for hire at both Adel's Grove and Lawn Hill Gorge, it is a delightful alternative way of viewing the Gorge. Adel's Grove offers a quite different environment to that of the Park consequent upon the planting of many exotic tree species by a French Botanist in the 1930's, ideal for the bird enthusiast.
Back on the Savannah Way, about 5km out of Burketown is the turnoff to Escott Lodge, a cattle station offering accommodation, meals, camping facilities, fuel (leaded and diesel only) and fishing activities in which you can participate. It's an easy journey from here to Burketown, a small but important administrative centre for the region. It has the usual town facilities including banking agencies and a hospital as well as myriad things to see and do.
From Burketown to Normanton, the road consists of unsealed blacksoil that is well maintained. Whilst during the dry season the road is open to conventional vehicles, during and just after the wet it is definitely 4WD only. In periods of heavy rain, it closes due to flash-flooding at numerous creek and river crossings, so you're advised to check conditions with the tourist centre at Burketown before setting out or the Gulf Savannah Tourist Organisation. Note that there are no petrol facilities in the 228km between Burketown and Normanton.
The major points of interest along this part of the Savannah Way are about 70km out of Burketown. Near the turnoff to Floraville Homestead, there's a monument to explorer Frederick Walker, who died here in 1866 whilst searching for Burke and Wills. Just past the turnoff are the Leichhardt River and Falls, a pleasant spot with good camp sites. Swimming is tempting but the waters are croc-infested, so it's probably best to paddle (carefully) in the various small ponds lying around. Unfortunately, it's not uncommon for the falls to dry up during the dry season.
From here, follow the signs to Normanton, across numerous grids and past the turnoffs to Wernadinga and Inverleigh Homesteads. The Flinders River crossing is 28km from Inverleigh, shortly followed by the Bynoe and Little Bynoe Rivers. A track leads a little way off the right to a camp site, Camp 119, where Burke and Wills stopped on their way back from the Gulf in 1861. From here, it's another 37km to Normanton.
Lying at the junction of the Matilda Highway and the Burke and Gulf Developmental Roads, Normanton is the largest town in the district, catering for outlying properties and communities and servicing a flourishing tourist trade. There are numerous pubs in town as well as accommodation, supermarkets, police, a hospital and a bank. One of Normanton's claims to fame is as the terminus of the Gulflander, a passenger train that operates once a week between Normanton and the old gold mining town of Croydon. It's a terrific trip worth taking.
If you're heading on to Cairns from Normanton, you basically have two choices as to routes - the Gulf Developmental Road and Kennedy Highway via Croydon and Georgetown (700km) or the Burke Developmental Road via Dunbar and Chillagoe (772km).
The former is almost completely bituminised with fuel facilities en route, making the run a fairly easy one and suitable for conventional vehicles. The latter is a slightly different proposition, with the first 30km bitumen and the next 230km to Dunbar Homestead unsealed and rough, but navigable by conventional vehicles with care. Once past Dunbar the road improves dramatically, becoming a wide earth-formed carriageway that's usually in good order all the way to Chillagoe.
You will have to carry fuel along the Burke Developmental Road. You can get some (if you're desperate) at Dorunda Homestead, 172km north-east of Normanton and then 25km off the road, but after that, there's none available until you hit Chillagoe, 600km away. Chillagoe is a small town with a history of mining offering accommodation, food supplies and mechanical repairs. From Chillagoe to Cairns, the road is mainly bitumen and should pose no problems.
You should check with the Gulf Savannah Development as to current road conditions (updated daily) before setting out from Normanton. Note that the road is closed during the wet season.
There are many magnificent attractions along both of the roads to Cairns including the Chillagoe Caves, the Undara Lava Tubes and some magnificent national parks. Detailed information on these is available from the Gulf Savannah Tourist Organisation, the QNPWS and any tourist centre in the region.
Useful Phone Numbers |
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| Automobile Associations | AANT Elliott | (08) 8969 2085 |
| AANT Katherine | (08) 8971 1733 | |
| RACQ Camooweal | (07) 4748 2155 | |
| RACQ Croydon | (07) 4745 6163 | |
| RACQ Normanton | (07) 4745 1221 | |
| Police | Borroloola | (08) 8975 8770 |
| Burketown | (07) 4745 5120 | |
| Doomadgee | (07) 4745 8222 | |
| Normanton | (07) 4745 1133 | |
| Roper River | (08) 8975 4644 | |
| Road Conditions | NT | 1800 246 199 |
| QLD | 1300 130 595 | |
| Gulf Savannah Development | (07) 4051 4658 | |
| Services | Adel's Grove | (07) 4748 5502 |
| Escott Lodge | (07) 4748 5577 | |
| Hell's Gate Roadhouse | (07) 4745 8258 | |
| Roper Bar Store | (08) 8975 4636 | |
| Wollogorang Roadhouse | (08) 8975 9944 | |
| Tourist Information | Katherine Region | (08) 8972 2650 |
| Gulf Savannah Development | (07) 4051 4658 |
My family and I lived as caretakers of Kingfisher Camp between Hells Gate Road House and Doomadgee for 6 months during the wet season. If you do travel during these months I suggest that you advise local authorities of your travel plans and call when you’ve arrived. Shelley, Chinderah
Always carry a small esky in your car, as a cool drink and a snack on the road will not only refresh you, but you will be more inclined to stop. This might just save your life AND someone else's.
Graham, Laurieton
I recently travelled from Borroloola to Normanton and found the way to be rough and corrugated with some of the water crossings badly washed out. Unless regraded I would advise extreme care and allow extra time, the going can be slow.
Wcal, Castle Hill
4WD
