Despite the fact that for years the Barrington Tops has been virtually closed off to four-wheel drivers, it retains an almost mystical reputation as a must-see destination.
In 'the old days' (the 1980s and before), fabulous driving opportunities were available, like the Careys Peak Trail, which provided both a challenge to skill levels, and spectacular views. And that, in a nutshell, is the attraction of the Tops.
The NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service's decision to lower the boom was understandable. Though the trails were usually closed off in the winter months, when snow and rain meant that users simply chopped the service tracks to rutted driving impossibilities, often, summer rains gave the same result. Track maintenance isn't easy - or cheap - in this very rugged section of the Great Divide.
Even after the lockout, it was possible to get your driving thrills in the State Forests sections of the Tops, but in 1999, the NPWS annexed huge areas previously under Forestry control. Under World Heritage listing, the Barrington Tops National Park now comprises about 74,000ha, swallowing major blocks of the Stewarts Brook and Barrington Tops State Forests.
Ah, but there is a 4WD god, or at least a benevolent bureaucrat.
In 2001 the NPWS declared a designated 4WD-only track - the Barrington Trail. It runs off the Barrington Tops Forest Road, the major artery that runs from Gloucester to Scone, and heads into the northwestern section of the Park. The good news is that there are still no entry or camping fees.
Barrington Tops is a natural wonderland worthy of World Heritage listing. You'll marvel at huge stands of Antarctic Beech (prehistoric trees), and drive past other wonderful botanical specimens of mountain gums, snow gums and black sally. You may see trout sinuously swimming in tiny high country streams. And, if the mists swirl through the moss-clinging forest, you'll believe you're in the land of the Hobbit. If it's snowing as well, the Tops can be chilling, psychologically as well as physically - a spooky place for those with imagination.
From Newcastle and Sydney, the easiest and quickest access is from Gloucester, a town lying at the foot of the first local indication of the Great Divide, the monolithic Bucketts. Take the Walcha road, but divert to Barrington, where the climb into the mountains begins in earnest.
The Barrington Tops Forest Road goes from tar to dirt, but it's wide and well maintained. If doing the trip in winter, expect snow on the road, which can be exciting in its own right.
All the way along the main thoroughfare, picnic spots and rest areas are located every 10 km or so, but the main attraction is Polblue Swamp. A popular base camp for four-wheel drivers and freshwater anglers alike, Polblue is a unique environment. Here, narrow winding brooks meander through grey-green sphagnum moss. Duckboard walking tracks ensure that high visitation doesn't equal environmental degradation. It is a truly beautiful spot.
After a foray down the new four-wheel drive trail, you can return to the Forest Road to continue to Scone. The western perimeter of the Barrington Tops is marked by a huge vermin-proof gate, designed to keep ferals in the Park and away from the rich grazing lands below. Shut the gate after you've gone through.
Descending from the Tops provides one of the most magnificent vistas in Australia, with expansive views over the surrounding flatlands of the Upper Hunter Valley. (At the bottom, there's a great old country pub at Moonan Brook!)
Finally, if you do the trip 'in reverse' - from Scone - don't head straight back into Gloucester at the Cobark turnoff. Instead, continue south through Rawdon Vale to rejoin the Bucketts Way north of Wards River. Enthusiastic dirt road drivers will have an absolute ball, and passengers will be gobsmacked by the scenery.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
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