NSW may be the most populated state in the nation, but you don't have to venture far from the crowded coastal strip to find vast tracts of beautiful wilderness.
Werrikimbe National Park, in the mid-north coast hinterland behind Port Macquarie, is a perfectly pristine wilderness. It's a World Heritage park, wrapped within the dramatic fold of the Great Dividing Range where two rivers, the Forbes and Hastings, begin their journey to the coast.
You can't go driving at will around this national park wilderness, but there is one road, Racecourse Trail which gives you access to the park's highlights.
The trail runs for 20 km across the top section of Werrikimbe, forming the border with another remote national park, Oxley Wild Rivers. You'll see subalpine swamp, heath, snow gums and the soft grey-greens of the cool climate eucalypt forests. In spring, the high country wildflowers alone make this a spectacular drive.
This is where to keep an eye out for the park's rare plants and animals including the Rufous Scrub Bird and the Hastings River Mouse - originally believed to be extinct until it was rediscovered in 1981 in the Forbes River. Rare plants include the Pygmy Cypress and the Filmy King Fern.
Racecourse Trail
The track is well maintained and not difficult although there are occasional muddy bog holes. You'll need a four-wheel-vehicle to make it through. Four-wheel drives with low ground clearance may find crossing the Forbes River - at the eastern end of the track - tricky or impossible if it's been raining.
It's best to tackle the trail at a slow, steady speed in high-range second gear. To give an idea of the terrain, it takes one to two hours to travel its length, depending on conditions. You'll need a detailed map, which is available at the State Forests Wauchope office or the newsagency in the main street.
There are three access roads to Racecourse and all of them are dirt. Tight, twisting corners, reasonably steep climbs and descents as well as a damp surface mean you have to drive with extra care.
If you're approaching Werrikimbe from the coast, the starting point is the village of Beechwood, near Wauchope (impress the locals by pronouncing it correctly - Wau-hope).
On the 56 km run up to the park from Wauchope along Hastings Forrest Way, you pass through beautiful subtropical rainforests where tall tree ferns and enormous, arrow-straight eucalypts dominate the landscape.
Owners of two-wheel drive cars can reach the boundary of Werrikimbe and take one of several short, easy walking tracks to get a taste of the bush. You'll find access via Hastings Forrest Way, the beginning of Racecourse Trail and Mooraback and Cobcroft Roads. Details of walks are available from NPWS' Armidale office.
If you want to walk into the heart of Werrikimbe you'll need two or three days to explore the Hastings and Forbes valleys. Even serious bushwalkers, with well-honed navigation and survival skills, find these treks challenging but the scenic rewards are spectacular.
You can get from the coast to Werrikimbe and back in a day if you get an early start. If the weather is poor, leave it for another time, as the dirt roads and high altitude can be unpleasant in the wet.
If you are starting from Port Macquarie, it takes about two hours on the Hastings Forest Way to reach the eastern end of the Racecourse Trail.
Camping areas
To experience the peace and beauty of this wilderness try camping at the Brushy Mountain Rest Area. This site is in a gum woodland and has picnic tables, BBQs, shelter sheds and toilets. Grass Tree picnic area is just down stream from the site and is situated above a series of cascading rapids.
Camping areas are also located on the western side of the park, at Mooraback and Cobcroft. Plateau Beech camping area is on the Cockerawombeea Road and has all the usual facilities. There is a short bushwalk from here that ventures into a deep, rainforest-clad mountain gully.
All of these sites are sufficiently remote to just about ensure that your experience will be uninterrupted by others.
The best way to enjoy the Werrikimbe wilderness is to make it into a relaxing two-day trip with overnight stops at Mooraback or Cobcroft.
NSW National Parks can be closed at times of bushfire and bushfire danger. It is advisable to check with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service before you set off. Either phone 1300 361 967 (within NSW) or (02) 9253 4600 or visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.
Don't just stay in the car, there are some stops along the track with amazing bush walks through the rainforest, a great chance to get closer to nature. Elle, Hobart.
4WD
