It was only in 1962 that Dr. Reg Sprigg, accompanied by his wife and children became the first person to drive across the Simpson Desert.
Only 42 years on, it remains a challenging trip, which requires careful planning, a properly prepared four-wheel drive, and the right gear if it is to be done enjoyably and safely. However it¡¦s also an opportunity for you and your kids to step right out of your comfort zones and have a memorable holiday.
The Simpson is a bit more out there than Disneyland, that's for sure.
Our Simpson expedition numbered five kids aged six to fifteen, three adults, Toyota LandCruiser and Nissan Patrol turbo diesel automatics and everything including the kitchen sink.
While some people take younger children quite happily and safely across the desert, it's probably easier for everyone concerned if the kids have at least a measure of self reliance on a trip like this.
When they're old enough to put up their own tents, help with preparing meals and cleaning up, and keep their gear in some semblance of order, an outback trip is a great exercise in teaching them about independence and responsibility.
We took the QAA and French Line tracks, at 450 km the shortest and, according to the pundits, roughest tracks across the desert.
The Rig Road is the other main track. It is longer - over 700 km if you cover its full length ¡V but reputedly easier and more scenic. The other east-west route is the WAA line, which runs between the French Line and the Rig Road.
Several north south tracks - K1 Line, Colson, Erebena and Knolls - run between the dunes, forming a grid with the east-west routes.
We arrived at Birdsville via Tibooburra in NSW, Cameron's Corner and Innamincka in South Australia.
We broke the journey by camping for a few days at Cooper Creek near Innamincka, and Coongie Lakes, a two hour drive to the north west. The kids got the road weariness out of their systems, did a bit of fishing, swam in the lakes, and generally had a great time.
Birdsville is your last chance to pick up information on conditions in the Simpson and supplies for the trip. After Birdsville, there's absolutely nothing until you reach the Dalhousie Springs campground on the other side of the desert; the next fuel pump is another 70 km further on at Mt Dare, on the way to Alice Springs, or south at Oodnadatta.
Conditions can change on a daily basis in the Simpson, so what you read beforehand in the guidebooks is not necessarily what you'll find when you get there.
The proprietor of the Birdsville caravan park (where you can stay in modern motel style units or camp down by the Diamantina River) knew what she was talking about, so we took her advice. The Rig Road, she said, was a mess and very difficult. The French Line was fine, but Eyre Creek, 65 km west of Birdsville, was full after recent rain so a 60 km detour was necessary.
The first sand dune you hit after leaving Birdsville is Big Red. At 40 metres, it defeats many four-wheel drives, but as with most of the Simpson's difficult sand dunes, there is a short, easy detour around the base.
Everyone has a crack at Big Red. The LandCruiser and Patrol, with the torquiest turbo diesels in the business, walked over it with ridiculous ease.
After Big Red, you're in the desert proper. The initial 170 km on the QAA Line to the NT border sees the dunes spaced widely apart, with a flattish 200-800 metre run between.
Eyre Creek was indeed full. This didn't stop a group trying to cross from the other side. They got stuck, of course, and while trying to recover one of their utes from the creek a shackle broke and severely injured a woman travelling with them.
It was a graphic example of how the Simpson, and the outback in general, is unforgiving of carelessness and mistakes. No ambulance was going to show up in ten minutes. We were carrying a satellite phone, so were able to call Birdsville and arrange for medical help, which came out to meet the group in the desert.
The other vital piece of safety gear on a Simpson trip is a two-way radio for short range communication. Using Channel 10, we were able to monitor vehicles coming west-east, so we wouldn¡¦t have an unfortunate meeting at the top of a sand dune.
Simpson lore also requires at least the lead vehicle to have a tall aerial with a flag or two flying at the top. This allows oncoming traffic to see you before you get to the crest of a dune, avoiding a collision.
Many a Simpson trip has come to a crashing conclusion in this way.
After the morning's dramas at Eyre Creek, our plan to spend two nights in the desert went out the window. There is no point in rushing things out here, so it looked like we were going to be three nights to Dalhousie.
Travelling with five kids in such remote country requires a lack of urgency and a flexible timetable. Setting and packing up a camp - we had a tent for each child takes a couple of hours at each end of the day, and we found ourselves with only about five hours daily driving time.
If you have the luxury of three or more weeks instead of our two, take it. We didn't push the kids too hard, though they came close to the whinge threshold a few times, at which point we stopped and let them run around in the great nowhere.
They enjoyed the trip immensely, but it would have been nice to have the luxury of a drive-free day or two to do some exploring on foot and let the kids find their own desert surprises.
An illustrated field guide to the plants and animals of the desert is also invaluable. If the kids know what they're looking at, it seems to stimulate their interest. And you do run out of 'Spy' type games pretty quickly.
When you reach the NT border, the track swings south for 18 km, running between a couple of salt lakes, to Poeppel Corner where the NT, SA and Queensland borders meet.
The French Line starts at Poeppel Corner, and for the next 170 km is very slow going. You¡¦re lucky to average 20 km/h, as the dunes start to pile up on one another, without longer, flat stretches between. The dunes are less steep, but the track is more demanding, a series of bumps and ruts which give the suspension a real workout.
You also see fewer other vehicles on this section, as travellers start to spread out on the tracks which run south from the French Line to the Rig Road. You are well and truly in the desert wilderness.
Another Simpson theory is that you should drop your tyre pressures below 20 psi to cross the dunes without digging in and getting stuck. This works, but it also greatly increases the chance of a punctured sidewall, or a tyre rolling off its rim.
We ran the tyres at 25 psi, with no problems, and have done so on other outback trips.
Purni Bore to Dalhousie is a quick, easy run on small, hard clay topped ridges along the Spring Creek Delta track, which feels like freeway compared with the French Line.
As you approach Dalhousie, you'll cross Gluepot Bog. If it has recently rained, you probably won't. On the western side of Dalhousie, Tenacity Bog is equally obstinate when wet.
Dalhousie Springs is the perfect spot to finish a Simpson crossing. You will by now be encrusted with red dirt and the kids will look like urchins from Mad Max. They get pretty feral after a few days in the desert.
Showers are provided at the campground, but the best bet is to first wander down to the clean, hot springs and immerse yourself in glorious water. I guarantee it will be the best tub you have ever had.
Birdsville is 1570 km west of Brisbane, or 800 km north-west of Tibooburra NSW via Innamincka and Cordillo Downs
Innamincka Regional Reserve.
Camping and fishing at Cooper Creek, 4WD, Burke and Wills history, Dig Tree Around Innamincka, SA All year. (08) 8675 9909
Birdsville.
Camping by the Diamantina River, 4WD in Simpson Desert Birdsville, Qld.
Simpson Desert Conservation Park
North east South Australia
Witjira National Park
Dalhousie Springs Western edge of Simpson Desert,SA
Road conditions can vary on a daily basis in this region. For general road conditions, call the Transport SA hotline on 1300 361 033, or visit the website www.transport.sa.gov.au
For road conditions around Innamincka, call the Regional Reserve office on (08) 8670 7746.
For Simpson Desert track conditions and desert parks pass availability call the Desert Parks hotline on 1800 816 078
For general information about SA Desert Parks visit: www.parks.sa.gov.au
Email address for general enquiries about SA Desert Parks: parkinfo@saugov.sa.gov.au
January: 24 -39C
July: 8 - 22C
It is strongly recommended that you avoid this trip in the warmer months, particularly November-March when daytime temperatures often exceed 40 degrees. The best time of the year to go is May-September, when the weather is cool-warm during the day and cold at night.
4WD
