Stockton Beach, north of Newcastle has some of the biggest, legally driveable, dunes in the country. The best (easiest) time to drive this vast sand stretch is after heavy rain, when the beach and dunes pack down. Worst is at the end of a long hot dry spell, when the superheated sand becomes an innocent-looking, traction-sapping morass. If hot winds have been blowing at the same time, loose, superfine drifts can trap even the most experienced of off-road adventurers.
On the foreshores of the beach, heavy visitation often means very deep wheelruts and hence difficult driving conditions, and you should be aware that high tides often mean there's a very narrow negotiable strip. Fortunately, however, there is an inland track running the length of the beach, so an escape route is always there!
Never charge over the top of a dune without knowing what's on the other side. Often, it will be nothing but a sheer drop. People have been killed on Stockton because excitement overwhelmed common sense.
But before you blaze onto this legendary 4WD Mecca, you'll need a permit. These are available at Tomteland - a kid's amusement park about five minutes north of Lavis Lane (one of two access points to the beach) - or at the service station, newsagency or hotel at Anna Bay, which provides easiest access.
Whichever access route you choose, it's likely you'll need low-range straight away, and tyre pressures lowered to around 16psi. (Be careful in making sharp turns with your tyres down - it's very easy to roll them off the rims.)
In general, petrol vehicles, with their peakier torque curves, are better suited than diesel 4WDs to Stockton's heavy sand conditions. Likewise, automatics fare better than manuals, because the gearchanges are smoother, with no loss of momentum as the clutch is depressed. (Manual drivers should make sure their gearchanges are as smooth and quick as possible.) If you are in an automatic, however, keep an eye on the ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) warning light. This sand is very hard on automatic transmissions and manual clutches, particularly in prolonged driving sessions. Visitors should come well-equipped with a good dose of mechanical sympatico, and, in case something does go wrong, some emergency water supplies.
Be warned: on weekends, traffic can be fairly heavy. Stockton is popular not only with enthusiast four-wheel drivers, but beach fishermen as well.
There are other reasons to visit as well. One of many ships to have foundered off Newcastle, the wreck of the Sygna is the most prominent landmark off the beach. A Norwegian bulk carrier, it broke in half in a heavy gale some 26 years ago, and each year, rust and the ocean take their toll on a once proud lady.
Aboriginal middens (piles of mollusc shells near extended camp sites) can be found throughout the dunes, and occasionally, tools and implements are found. These should be left where they are, as souveniring indigenous relics is illegal.
By the inland track, rows of rusting star pickets are all that's left of barbed wire entanglements set up in WWII to make it difficult for (Japanese) invaders to head inland. And midway along the interdunal sand track is 'Silver City' - a jumbled collection of squatters' huts that looks like a Mad Max film set. So Stockton offers much more than the chance to hone your sand-driving skills.
A few final words of warning. This beach is best seen with companions in another 4WD. Both vehicles should carry recovery equipment like snatch straps, D-shackles and long-handled shovels.
Avoid staying on the beach until late afternoon, because dying light levels make it near impossible to see variations in the terrain, much like a whiteout in the snow country.
Likewise, if using the Lavis Lane exit, allow plenty of time to get out. A couple of short but very steep climbs can make exiting a heart-in-mouth experience.
We wanted to do Stockton but heard a lot of scary stories. So we decided to do it with Getabout 4WD Adventures, who are the only tour operator in Sydney licensed to use Stockton for passengers and Tag-alongs. They did a great job. Very friendly and informative, and most of all we felt very safe. John and Geoff took us out on the day, John's opening words were "Stockton is perfectly safe, until you forget that it is dangerous". I would recommend these guys to anyone thinking of doing sand driving. Julie, Sydney
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