Australia still has many places on its coastline which are so remote that most of us don’t even know where they are. Where, for example, is the Cobourg Peninsula?
It’s right at the top of the Northern Territory, a thin, curved peninsula which juts west from the north
coast of Arnhem Land into the Arafura Sea, towards the Tiwi Islands.
Fewer than 1500 visitors each year are permitted to enter the Cobourg Peninsula, which encompasses Garig Gunak Barlu National Park.
It is aboriginal land, managed by four local clan groups – the Agalda, Madjunbalmi, Muran and Ngaindjagar – together with the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory.
Visitor numbers are restricted because of the area’s isolation, its pristine condition – it was the first wetland to be recognised under the worldwide Ramsar convention in 1974 – and its relatively limited facilities.
However if you’ve done the more well worn tourist trails of the Territory, and you’re looking for a real adventure in a beautiful coastal wilderness, Cobourg has much to offer. And if you’re a fisho – as most visitors are -- you should put it on your list of must do locations to drop a line.
On land, and in the surrounding protected waters, the full range of northern coastal habitats is preserved. Sandy beaches, dunes, grasslands, mangroves and rainforest are surrounded by lagoons, sea grass meadows and reefs.
Saltwater crocodiles, the dugong, and the world’s greatest concentration of marine turtles (six species) inhabit the area, and they’re not difficult to see. The agile wallaby, dingo and banteng – wild cattle which originated in Indonesia – are common in the park.
It also has a colourful history. Aboriginal people have lived in this abundant environment for more than 40,000 years, and continue to practise traditional hunting and fishing. The Macassans from Sulawesi traded with the aboriginal people for centuries, seeking the trepang (sea slugs) which were considered a delicacy in China.
Europeans have had a tough time here. In 1838, the Victoria Settlement was established in Port Essington in response to British fears of Dutch and French expansion on to Australia’s north coast. It lasted only until 1849, the inhabitants decimated by disease and dispirited by their isolation.
Today, Cobourg’s visitor facilities – four beach huts, two campgrounds, park office, store, boat ramp and airstrip – are centred around Black Point, on the north eastern entrance to Port Essington.
Some people fly from Darwin on chartered aircraft, however most make the long journey by road. And what an amazing drive it is.
The initial trip from Darwin takes you to Jabiru in Kakadu National Park, an easy 250 km or so on the sealed Arnhem Highway.
Just west of Jabiru, at Cahills Crossing, you have to cross the East Alligator River into Arnhem Land. Once you’re over that causeway, you leave all the tourist trappings, and your comfort zone, behind as you begin the 300 km trip to Cobourg.
A four-wheel drive is necessary, but in the dry season (there’s no access in the wet) the track is usually in good condition and well maintained, so the trip takes about five hours. You cross several creeks, but causeways have been installed and in the dry season they are usually exposed.
Our trip coincided with an unusually delayed end to the 2003-2004 wet season – the end of May, which had the locals reaching for the record books -- so after three days of rain on the Peninsula we had an interesting time getting back to Jabiru in our standard 100 Series LandCruiser diesel.
Near Murgonella, an abandoned settlement, the billabong – which happens to be the home of a few crocs – was in flood. It was about 800 mm deep – marginal, particularly with no snorkel fitted -- and about 100 metres to the other side.
The idea of being stuck halfway across a croc infested billabong with a hydraulically locked engine didn’t appeal, so we waited until we could see the 750 mm mark on the depth gauge and headed in. Safe on the other side, we silently thanked Mr Toyota for giving his vehicle excellent fording ability.
Once you reach the Peninsula itself, you climb up from the flatlands and follow the ridgeline to Black Point.
We stayed in the one of the Cobourg Beach Huts at Smith Point, a few kilometres from Black Point. There are only four huts, and each has a wonderful view out through its fully louvred front wall across to the western shore of Port Essington.
The fully self contained huts are pretty basic, but well designed for the climate with natural flow through ventilation, gas cooking and refrigeration, solar power and sleeping for six (a double bed and two bunks.)
The showers – rustic corrugated iron jobs with the water tank above – and toilets are behind the huts, while 100 metres out front is the beach.
Just walking along the beach is an adventure in itself here. You’ll find superb seashells of all descriptions, and you need to keep your eye out for crocodiles and turtles. Obviously, swimming is not advisable.
Two campgrounds are located near the huts, one for those with generators, the other for people who want peace and quiet. Both are a few minutes walk from the beach.
It’s a strange setup. The non generator campground is in thick coastal woodland, right beside a billabong, so it’s often damp and the mosquitos are feral. At the time we visited, a crocodile was occasionally wandering around, which I guess adds to the authenticity of the top end experience.
The generator campground is actually in a much more comfortable spot out in the open, and it’s a large area so even if you don’t have a generator you can probably get far enough away from those who do.
That’s part of the beauty of Cobourg. Only 20 vehicles are allowed into the park at any one time, and access is controlled by permit. So whether you camp, or stay at the beach huts, there is never a crowd.
Cobourg might be a long way from anywhere, but there’s still plenty to see and do. Go to our story where we take a boat trip to Victoria Settlement, follow the four-wheel-drive track around the peninsula, and hook up with our guide, Jason, for a great day’s fishing.
*A permit is required to enter Arnhem Land, so it is essential for your drive to Cobourg. Contact the Northern Land Council or call (08) 8920 5100.
• A permit is also required to enter Garig Gunak Barlu National Park. If you stay at the Cobourg Beach Huts, it is included in the price of your accommodation. If you are camping, it costs $232.10 per vehicle, which covers up to five adults for up to 7 nights, and includes camping fees. Kids under 16 are free.
• Contact the Permit Officer, Cobourg Peninsula Sanctuary and Marine Park Board, at PO Box 496, Palmerston, NT 0831, or call (08) 8999 4814 to obtain a permit.
• In both cases, obtain your permits well ahead of your travel, preferably six months. Access to Cobourg is restricted, but it is increasing in popularity so if you want to go at short notice it may be difficult.
• Cobourg Beach Huts has information and bookings for the beach huts, details of fishing and tours and some great pix of the peninsula.
• Basic groceries, frozen meat and fuel are available at the Garig Store.
• Take plenty of water, a spare spare if available, tyre changing equipment, an EPIRB beacon and snatch strap on the drive from Jabiru-Cobourg. Most hire car companies will supply this equipment for an additional fee.
• Some car hire companies in the NT do not permit their vehicles to be taken into Arnhem Land or Cobourg. Check before you book.
4WD
