buying a used car
 
 

buying a used car

Buying a used carUsed cars cost less than new cars but may have defects the seller hasn’t told you about or doesn’t know. Follow our step-by-step guide to avoid a bad buy. 

Step 1: Choosing the right car

When buying a new car, budget may be the first thing you think about, but you also need to consider:

  • Safety and security – to find out how safe your choice is, check its safety ratings on the NRMA website
  • The makes and models you like
  • Fuel consumption versus performance i.e. the higher the performance, the higher the fuel consumption
  • Running costs – high tech and luxury imported models can be expensive to service, repair and insure, so check spare parts costs and insurance premiums; and
  • Your needs – think about whether you use your car just for getting from A to B or for more long-distance travel. Also, will it be garaged or parked on the street? Consider how many passengers you usually carry; if you need power to tow a trailer or boat; or if you need space for work materials or sports gear.

If you can’t decide which make to buy or how much to spend, call NRMA Motoring Advice for help in choosing a vehicle that meets your needs.

Step 2: The real cost

A used car costs more than the negotiated price so factor in costs like stamp duty, rego, transfer fee, insurance and maintenance. Get an insurance quote and ask your mechanic about repair and service costs.


Step 3: Where to buy

You’ve decided what you want and how much you want to spend, so where do you get your dream car? There are several options, all with pros and cons depending on your priorities. 


Step 4: Test drive tips

  • Before you take a car for a test drive, be sure to check with the seller about your legal liability if a crash should occur during the drive.
  • Make sure you feel comfortable when driving, and that you can adjust the seat and steering wheel to suit, and see and reach all the panels and controls.
  • Does the car go, stop, handle and steer in a way that makes you feel confident in its abilities?
  • When taking the vehicle for a test drive, drive it on local streets, arterial roads and a motorway.
  • Try parallel parking a few times.
  • Pay attention to steering, brakes, exhaust, the sound of the engine, the feel of the transmission, and suspension.
  • Remember, a test drive involves no obligation on your part to buy the car. Make your decision before you return the car to the seller if possible.


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Step 5: Found the car you want? Then get on the phone

Okay, you’ve found what you think is your dream car. Your next and most vital step is to get on the phone and check:

  • with REVS that no money is owed on the car;
  • the rego papers to see if they are current and the seller (if you are buying privately) is the registered owner. When you are shown the vehicle, the seller must provide you with a pink slip inspection report, issued in the last month. For more details, call the RTA;
  • with NRMA Motoring Advice if you require any other expert advice regarding purchasing a vehicle.

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Step 6: Negotiating a deal

You can negotiate a lower price than the seller is asking depending on how keen you are to buy and they are to sell.

Used car prices vary widely, depending on the condition of the car, fitted options, kilometres travelled, even the colour. Estimate a realistic price, then offer slightly less.  If the vehicle you have your eye on isn’t there call NRMA Technical Advice.) If the seller meets or gets close to your price, do the deal. If they don’t, walk away and look elsewhere.

The golden rule is to keep the seller uncertain as to whether you’re interested in buying that car or another one from someone else. Until the deal is done, the price can always go a little lower. And shop around. After one seller quotes you a price, ask other sellers/dealers if they can do better for a similar car.

Make the seller nominate the first figure, then mention any lower offers made by other sellers to force the price down.

If you want to do a trade-in, ask dealer for the changeover price as that removes the risk of hidden costs.

Don’t worry if you don’t get the once-in-a-lifetime bargain you had your eyes on. Another car is sure to come along soon.

Step 7: Ways to pay

The general rule about borrowing money is: the longer you take to pay it off, the more you pay. Only borrow as much as you need, and don’t over commit. 

  • Pay what you can up front (in cash or as a trade-in) and pay less interest. 
  • Try and pay by bank cheque so you don’t have to carry lots of cash around. 
  • Get a receipt from the seller. You can print a receipt form at NRMA Motoring & Services’ website.
  • Shop around for the best finance deal. 
  • Consider leasing or hire-purchase, particularly if you’re in business. You may be able to claim some of the payments as tax deductions. Talk to your accountant before entering into an agreement.

Leaving a deposit:  Generally, if you’re buying privately, any agreement you make is verbal. But to avoid any confusion later on, download a copy of a vehicle checklist and a buyer agreement form/receipt from NRMA’s website.

If the seller asks for a deposit, there is no set amount to leave, so pay as little as possible. Make sure that one of your conditions of purchase is that your money is refunded if the car fails an inspection.

If you commit to buying the vehicle, make it clear that you don’t want the car to be damaged or key options removed in the time it takes you to come back to pay the balance. Note the speedo reading and specify the car may not be used until you return to pay the balance.

If you’re buying from a dealer, they are not responsible for any faults an inspection finds unless they contravene any roadworthy requirements. Don’t commit to a purchase until the checks are completed and you have negotiated the repair of any faults. It’s difficult to renegotiate a deal if you have already agreed to a price and signed a contract.


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Step 8: Transferring registration

When you buy a used car the seller must allow you to keep the pink slip they showed you earlier.

Then the registration has to be transferred from the seller to the buyer. It’s your responsibility as the buyer to make sure the rego is transferred according to the law. Make sure the seller completes the disposal notice and then submit it to the RTA as soon as possible.

Instructions on what you need to do are printed on the back of the registration papers, but if you have any questions call the RTA.

Step 9: Post-buy precautions

Soon after you buy a used car it’s a good idea to change all oils – engine, transmission, final drive (differential), brake/clutch fluid, and so on. Also change the engine coolant. Some of these oils and fluids might not have been changed for a long time.

Check to see if your car has a timing belt and when it was last replaced. These have a limited service life and must be changed regularly as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

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Scams and your rights

False advertising is illegal, but you need to be wary of vague or exaggerated claims. Do your research before you enter a car yard, or call NRMA Technical Advice for a price estimate on the car you want to buy and use this as your guide.

Thieves can steal cars that match the specifications of similar cars they bought at auction. The identity of the wreck is transferred to the stolen car, re-registered as if it has been repaired and put back on the road. You can cross-reference the car’s details with the RTA Written-off vehicle register (WOVR). But as this is not yet a national system it’s fallible.

Be wary if a vehicle has a gap in its rego history...

When you do a rego check, be wary if a vehicle has a gap in its rego history (note, it may have been registered in another State). Also, if there’s a gap in the vehicle’s service history that can’t be explained it may mean it has been stolen or off the road for a major repair. If it’s a late model car and missing the owners manual and service histories, be cautious.

If your purchase is suspected of being stolen or badly repaired, it may be impounded or put off the road while the matter is investigated. Insurance policies don’t cover you if the car has been stolen prior to you purchasing it. For free legal advice on your rights as a used car buyer call NRMA’s Legal Advice line.


Trading in your old car

Trading in your car for another is often easier than selling and buying privately, but it does have its drawbacks.

The main one is that you probably won’t get as much for it. After all, the dealer has to re-sell your car for a profit – and that’s after fixing any faults.

Trade-ins can also be confusing. For example, the amount offered for your old car could include a discount on the car you’re buying. Ask the dealer to give you the total changeover price – the cost to leave your old car and drive away in a new one. That’s the only figure that really matters.

Ignore dealers’ negative comments, such as “nobody wants to buy that model anymore” or “your car isn’t in very good condition”. This is often just sales talk to get you to accept a lower offer.

If you have time, try and get a trade-in price from a dealer, then try to sell it privately for a higher price. It might mean waiting longer to buy your new car but you’ll keep the dealer’s profit margin for yourself.

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LICENSED USED CAR DEALERS
 

Pros

Red tickIf a dealer sells you a car that turns out to be stolen or has finance still owing, you can make a claim against the dealer. Call NRMA Legal Advice for more information.
Red tickYou can get a trade-in on your old car. 
You get a warranty in NSW and ACT on any defects which occur within three months or 5000km (whichever occurs first) if the car is less than 10 years old or done under 160,000km.
Red tickDealers face tougher laws than private sellers so you have more legal rights such as a ‘cooling-off’ period. Note, a dealer is only required to offer a ‘cooling-off’ period if you are obtaining finance from a credit provider linked with the dealer.
Red tickLoyal car owners often have their cars serviced at the same place they bought them, then trade them in there. So you may get the best quality used car if you go to a dealership that specialises in the makes you like and that also sells new cars. In addition, they may also have vehicles from internal factory auctions for near new vehicles, such as executive cars from company fleets. 
Red tickThe car is more likely to be properly prepared for sale and in roadworthy condition, and you have more time to inspect and test drive the car.

Cons

red crossDealers are often more expensive.
red crossA trade-in may not get you the best price for your old car.

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PRIVATELY
 

Pros

Red tickOften cheaper as the seller doesn’t need to cover preparation and statutory requirements.
Red tickYou can meet and question the owner.

Cons

red crossNo warranty.
red crossNo security of title. 
red crossBuying privately means you are buying outside the consumer protection laws, which means you have no legal comeback if you get a lemon. 
red crossWhen you buy privately, you’re taking a bigger risk. A cheaper car does not insure you against unwittingly buying a rebirthed stolen car (where you’re not guaranteed a clear title), or an insurance write-off that has had dodgy, well-concealed repairs. Even worse, you’ve got no legal backup.

HOT TIP: Reduce your risk of a bad buy by checking with the RTA and REVS.


AUCTIONS 
 

Pros

Red tickMay be cheaper.
Red tickGuarantee of title.

Cons

red crossMay not be as cheap if the vehicle is subject to auctioneer’s fees so check the terms and conditions before you bid. You may also need to re-register the car and get a roadworthy certificate. 
red crossGenerally, there is no warranty. 
red crossCan’t test drive (cars marked ‘Sold as Seen’ may have failed an extended road test).
red crossNo legal comeback if you get a lemon.
red crossNot much time to check car’s history.

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FLEET SALES 
 

Specialist fleet companies look after the company car requirements of other organisations.

Pros

Red tickBy selling ex-company cars direct to the public, fleet cars can be an improvement on auction prices while still selling under dealer retail.
Red tickGood source of near new cars, particularly if the car is still under a new car warranty.

Cons

red crossCompany cars are turned over very quickly because of the amount of use, and the better vehicles may have been ‘picked over’ by trade and other internal buyers.


ONLINE
 

Pros

Red tickYou don’t have to traipse around town going to dealerships and private homes.
Red tickYou’ll find plenty of research material. 
Red tickYou don't have to negotiate face to face.

Cons

red crossAs with purchasing any item over the internet and not from a reputable company, the risk of getting a dodgy deal is much higher as you may not be able to see or test drive the vehicle, particularly if you are buying from interstate.

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Essential numbers and websites

  • REVS:Call 9633 6333 (Sydney); 1800 424 988 (outside Sydney)
          – to check no money is owed on the car
     
  • RTA: Call 13 22 13 (NSW); 6207 7000 (ACT)
          – for all registration and pink slip enquiries   
  • NRMA Motoring Advice: Call 1300 655 443
          – for advice on what car best suits your needs, or any mechanical or car buying questions 
  • Inspection checklist and buyer agreement form/receipt 
     
  • Used car safety ratings 
     

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