Harbour beaches, haunted houses and haute cuisine. As Sean Mooney discovered, Sydney's former quarantine station is a mix of past trials and present luxuries

Clear water breaks into foam as my kayak cuts through the glassy surface of Little Manly Cove. I pause in paddling and turn to take in a sandy stretch known as Quarantine Beach. The buildings around it - mixed in ages and styles - all played a part in the 150-year history of Sydney's former quarantine station.

The grand hospital building, once a site of great suffering, dominates the 30-hectare property. Last year, this location re-opened to the public as Q Station, a unique resort-style facility where the only hardship guests suffer is the steep walk from the restaurant to their accommodation - and there's a shuttle for those who can't face the climb.

I paddle back to the beach, drag my kayak onto the sand and stroll past the visitor centre, once the quarantine station's luggage store. Taking a seat outside the Boilerhouse Restaurant, I order a coffee and gaze out over the harbour. It's one of those magic Sydney mornings, with countless boats on the water, and I think to myself that the operators of Q Station may well have found the finest location in the city. Part of Sydney Harbour National Park and listed on the National Estate, it's a harbourside gem. However, it hasn't come cheaply, with almost $20 million spent on restoration work.

Q Station is leased from the National Parks and Wildlife Service, and 20 per cent of revenue goes back into conserving the site. Care was taken to protect the resident long-nosed bandicoots and little penguins, and to promote awareness of North Head's traditional owners, who used the site for healing and burial rites.
Great thought has also gone into telling the story from the 1830s onwards. Ships suspected of carrying contagious diseases would off-load their passengers and crew. Thousands of people were quarantined, often in harsh conditions. During the 1881 smallpox epidemic and 1918-19 influenza pandemic, many arrived and never left.

These days visitors choose from a range of accommodation in original station buildings. The verandah outside my door has arguably the best view in Sydney, which more than makes up for the smallish room. The fittings are utterly modern and many of the 71 rooms have ensuite bathrooms, flat-screen TVs and high-speed internet. Look closely and you'll even see solar panels on the heritage roofs. The only other compromises are no air-conditioning (high ceilings and fans do the job) and thin walls. Six private cottages that sleep from four to six guests are also available.

Not that most visitors spend much time in their rooms. Q Station tours provide access to precincts and buildings that are otherwise off limits, and the popular night ghost tours explore the site's haunted areas. I choose an option with less potential for terror - a day tour led by knowledgeable guides, Coralie and Jeni. They provide a glimpse into what life was like for those quarantined. Despite a collection of more than 16,000 historical artefacts on site, Coralie says there is much still to learn. "I am sure that the things we don't know about this site far outweigh the things we do know."

You don't have to stay overnight to explore Q Station. Several day-trips, departing from Darling Harbour, incorporate tours. Many include meals at the Boilerhouse, which I recommend.

Form and function combine well at Q Station, with important historical relics set off against the accoutrements of modern tourism. It's lovely to experience this mix on the shores of our own city.

Open Road November/December 2009