Central Ranges – Nature’s Kitchen Some of Australia's best wines can be found in the Central Ranges area of NSW. It's also where some of the State's tastiest produce is grown. Paul Rodger enjoys some world-class culinary delights. Australia’s wine industry has undergone something of a renaissance in the last decade. There are more wineries, wine production has more than doubled and dozens of new grape varieties are being commercially produced.

For wine-making areas like Mudgee, Orange and Cowra, which together form the Central Ranges zone of NSW, the growth in viticulture has been a boon for the region’s producers, restaurants and drinking holes. There has never been a better time to visit. Just remember to nominate the designated driver when you’re visiting!

Mudgee

Mudgee was once home to the Wiradjuri people who gave the region its name, which means ‘nest in the hills’. It’s an appropriate moniker. Visitors to Mudgee are struck by the beauty of the undulating landscape and by the warm and welcoming nature of the locals. There’s an interesting mix of country and city to be found here, too. It wouldn’t be unusual to enjoy a latte at a cafe in town while behind you a kelpie stands guard in the back of a farmer’s ute.

Mudgee’s railway station, which is now the 1884 Railway Restaurant, is typical of the exciting transformation taking place among Mudgee’s restaurant and food scene. Where you might have once sat in the station’s main waiting room for the next train to Sydney, now you can sit and wait to be served the restaurant’s signature dish: beef tenderloin with truffled pomme puree.

When you’re there, be sure to ask co-owner Rob Gillham about the alleged mix-up, whereby a delivery of materials bound for a railway station in India ended up as the building blocks for Mudgee’s railway station instead. It would certainly account for the station’s distinctive appearance, even if it’s only a tall tale. The Cobb and Co Hotel and adjoining Wineglass Bar and Grill have undergone a similar makeover. Built in the 1890s as a transfer station and hotel, much of the original building has been preserved, and the Hotel’s Wineglass restaurant is well known in Mudgee for its delicious use of local produce.

However, if a pub and bistro are more your thing, you can’t go past the Waratah Hotel, smack in the middle of town. There’s no better place to stop in for a beer or share a yarn with the locals.

Of course, Mudgee’s reputation is founded on its vineyards, particularly those producing the shiraz and cabernet sauvignon grapes. Merlot is also a staple here, but newer varieties such as sangiovese, barbera and pinot grigio have also been introduced. Visit DiLusso Estate if you fancy sampling wines made from Italian grape varieties. You can also taste some exquisite fresh figs and fig products.

Not far from DiLusso’s, and just off Cassilis Road, you’ll find Father’s Daughter Wines and Robert Stein Vineyards. Both produce award-winning reserve shiraz wines and deserve a visit.

These wineries and many more take part in Mudgee’s Wine Celebration month in September where the best of the region’s produce, both food and drink, can be sampled and enjoyed. 

Orange

Orange is the highest-altitude wine region in Australia, and it has built a substantial reputation for its fruity and aromatic white wines. The grapes grown here enjoy the cool climate, rich soils and sunlight, with the highest vineyards particularly suited to the production of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and merlot. The elevated slopes of Orange mean that many of the vineyards here enjoy a spectacular panoramic outlook. Among those offering fantastic views is Borrodell on the Mount, which nestles in the lea of Mt Conobolas. You can sample some Borrodell wines at the cellar door, or enjoy the view while taking a stroll among the vines.

In contrast to Mudgee, which had vines planted there as early as 1858, the wine industry in Orange is young. It is not uncommon to find wineries here that are small, and family-owned and run. One of the newcomers to the area is Ross Hill Vineyard, which was established in 1994 and is a distinctively family enterprise. The grapes are hand picked and the vines hand pruned. Pop in to sample some of their wines (on the weekend, by appointment) and look out for the bright red train carriage that acts as the cellar door and main office.

And then, of course, there is the food. The Orange district has traditionally been an important orchard area, producing apples, pears and cherries (but, ironically, not oranges). Now, it is a place where some of the country’s best chefs have come to tantalise and surprise at their award-winning restaurants.

Selkirks and Union Bank are two such restaurants to have attracted acclaim. Tonic, a little further afield in the cobblestone streets of Millthorpe, is worth visiting for its fine food prepared from local produce and chef Tony Worland’s delicious desserts. And located at the stunning Mayfield Vineyard is the School House restaurant where you can enjoy roasted lamb rump with potato, swede and carrot gratin together with a glass of merlot from the neighbouring vineyard. It’s a heavenly way to pass a cold winter’s afternoon.

Orange is increasingly at the forefront of the ‘slow food’ movement, which promotes local produce, the buying of fresh food, buying it at the right time, and knowing where your food comes from. If nothing else, it’s all about bringing community together around the dinner table.

You can check out the farmers’ market on the second Saturday of each month for a wonderful selection of top-quality food. It’s said to be one of the best in the state.

Cowra

Cowra is the southernmost  area in the Central Ranges, but it’s the warmest by virtue of its lower altitude. Like Orange, commercial wine production in the Cowra region is a relatively recent phenomenon, with the first plantings of vines taking place here in the mid-70s. Until then, Cowra was better known as the site of an ill-fated break-out attempt by Japanese prisoners of war during World War II. It was one of the most dramatic episodes in Australia’s history and, today, Cowra has a P.O.W. Museum and Memorial that commemorates the sacrifices made by soldiers and civilians during the war.

But Cowra represents much more than a slice of times past. It has grown tremendously in prominence as a wine-producing area, with chardonnay varieties earning the most accolades. Shiraz, merlot and cabernet sauvignon are also increasingly receiving praise.

If you’re driving and can only try a small sample of Cowra’s best, make sure you visit Windowrie Estate, one of the largest producers in the area. The cellar door forms part of an old flour mill that was built in 1861 from local granite and which has been painstakingly restored. It’s a fine addition to the heritage of the area.

Cowra is nestled in the Lachlan Valley where fertile agricultural land has traditionally produced the finest lamb, beef, wheat and asparagus. Recently, the region has diversified as a source of fine specialty products, such as organic wheat flour, Wagyu beef, cherries and strawberries. Innovative industries like the family-run Cowra Smokehouse are now here. Take a free tour and learn about their unique smoking processes, or catch your own trout from the indoor tank and have it smoked on the premises. It’s a taste sensation!

Of course, if you prefer someone else did all the preparation for you, then you can always enjoy one of Cowra’s fantastic restaurants. There is an increasingly diverse selection of venues here. For breakfast or lunch, try the suggestively named Naked Lady gourmet cafe and, for dinner, try LaVita for its tasty take on modern European cuisine.

Wherever you end up eating or drinking, be it restaurant or cellar door, you can rest assured that you’ll be tasting food and wine in the heart of where it’s produced.

Port Macquarie – A Gourmet’s Trail

A gourmet trail of Port Macquarie is like a degustation meal – a nibble of fresh produce, a taste of personal service and a serve of ocean views, all matched with local wines. If you haven’t visited the region for years, it’s worth a second helping, as Louise Goldsbury discovers. Port, as it’s known, has picked up its game in the eating stakes in recent years. Modern restaurants are doing wonders with local produce, and cosmopolitan cafes are spread along beautiful beaches and the Hastings River. The markets in the area also reveal some exceptional finds for foodies, and you can visit the producers direct at nut farms, oyster farms, orchards and vineyards.

As a testament to the area’s culinary progress, this year’s Restaurant Awards for Excellence (Northern NSW) has three out of five finalists in the Contemporary Australian Restaurant category located in Port Macquarie: The Stunned Mullet, Fusion 7 and Restaurant Splash. The city also dominates the seafood category, with finalists including Scampis, the Famous Whalebone Wharf Restaurant and Tommy’s by the Beach.

The Stunned Mullet last year won best new restaurant. Opposite Town Beach, the casual venue belies its sophisticated menu. Gnocchi is dressed up with wild mushrooms, cauliflower polonaise and truffle oil, while the slow-cooked pork belly is a crispy delight. Don’t miss the chocolate licorice gelato and the fabulous wines.

Also new on the cuisine scene, Fusion 7 opened last year and still sees a queue out the door on weekends. Owner and head chef Lindsey Schwab describes his style as “very rustic, good honest food, fusing flavours from around the world”. He changes the menu every couple of weeks, and his signature dish is kangaroo on potato rosti with green beans and beetroot pesto.

Fusion 7 also does an amazingly good-value lunch. A couple of options include prawn, coconut and bok choy laksa with rice noodles, shallots and coriander, or the chargrilled lemon baby squid on Greek salad with saffron aioli.

The Corner is Port’s latest restaurant/cafe, where chef Chris Fagan creates an impressive seasonal menu. Highlights are the local Camden Haven oysters, sautéed prawns, mezze plates, handmade pasta and huge gourmet pizzas using dough made onsite every day. The wine list focuses on boutique styles, and most are available by the glass. Breakfasts are also a winner, offering hotcakes with mascarpone and banana, and pastries cooked fresh every morning.

For a sample of delectable, French-style wine, visit the gorgeous Cassegrain Winery. John Cassegrain came to Australia from France, and in 1980 established the first vineyard in the Port Macquarie region. Set among rose gardens planted by his wife, John uses French winemaking methods and the highest quality fruit.

Cassegrain was the first winery to grow and commercially produce chambourcin in Australia, and the winery does a lovely range of reserves. After a few tastings with the friendly and knowledgeable cellar-door staff, choose your favourite by the glass
at Ca Marche Restaurant, recently awarded best new restaurant in northern NSW.

Coastal drive

Leaving the city, the coastal drive from Port Macquarie traces the region’s best swimming holes in a matter of 10 minutes, but there are lots of places to stop and relax for a few hours.

From Town Beach, the road leads to Oxley Beach and the family-friendly Flynn’s Beach. Just offshore, Big Rock and Little Rock are good for diving.

If you’re travelling with pets, you can walk your dog on Nobby’s Beach all the way to Harry’s Lookout. Lighthouse Beach, where the late-1800s lighthouse still operates, also has a great lookout, which can be reached via a new walkway that starts in the Sea Acres Nature Reserve.

Sea Acres is one of the few remaining places in NSW where the rainforest meets the sea. Follow the 1.2km elevated rainforest boardwalk through the impossibly straight and slender eucalyptus trees, then take a break at the top-notch cafe. From June, you can watch whales from the hill and enjoy the view out towards the magnificent North Brother Mountain. You can take a drive up the mountain to the North Brother Lookout, a must according to locals, though unsuitable for caravans. For dinner, try Lotus at Lighthouse, which was last year named the NSW north coast’s best Chinese restaurant, and is in the running again this year.

Stretching up to Lake Cathie (pronounced cat-eye), the Lake Innes National Park is Aboriginal-owned and protected. It’s a lovely drive past Laurieton, North Haven and Bonny Hills, where you can choose from a number of beachfront or riverside accommodation.   

North Haven has a strip of good eateries along the river, including Relish and Sandbar, while our guide, Kylie Malligan, of Let’s Go Travel, describes the pie shop as “addictive”.

Greater Port Macquarie

There are several oyster leases in Greater Port Macquarie. Armstrong’s Oysters in Laurieton is ideally positioned on the banks of the Camden Haven River. The family-run business produces two million oysters a year and is trying to keep the Sydney Rock Oyster alive, since its demise at the Hawkesbury.

Watch how oysters are farmed behind the scenes, including the Oystek machine, which counts and grades 1200 dozen oysters an hour. Armstrong’s delivers to about 10 local restaurants, including Sandbar and Relish, and the public can buy direct.

Carry on to Kendall, known as the poet’s village, and you’re suddenly in the countryside. The acreages are surrounded by Dooragan National Park and other nature reserves.

On the way in, an old sign reads ‘Kendall 1/2 mile’, which sets the scene for the historic village. There is a poet’s walk, a heritage walk, an 1889 Anglican church and, a little further on, Lorne Valley Macadamia Farm Cafe.

Perfect for a relaxing afternoon, this beautiful place specialises in macadamias of all types: smoked, salted, garlic, chilli, honey, as well as delicious macadamia-based meals. Try fettuccine with macadamia and basil pesto, or a macadamia chicken satay salad, followed by a macadamia slice and macadamia ice cream. Finish with macadamia tea and macadamia shortbread biscuits.

Managers Jo and Ray Scott moved here from Sydney 12 years ago for a tree change, and there are 1400 trees in their orchard to prove it. A former tearoom, the indoor/outdoor cafe is very popular, and you can wander around the farm after lunch.

The Hastings Farmers’ Markets, held on the fourth Saturday of each month at the Wauchope Showground, is an indoor/outdoor collection of stalls selling the brilliant fresh produce of Greater Port Macquarie. Meet the growers, sample the food, and get tips on how best to prepare it. Cooking demonstrations, using local produce, are held in the morning.

Cooking classes are also held west of Wauchope at The Company Farm. Run by Lyn Withers and Trish Richards, Neil Perry’s business partner, the farm is famous for its supply of fruit, vegetables and herbs to Sydney restaurants such as Rockpool and Sailors Thai, as well as a dozen Port Macquarie venues. Chefs from the local award-winning restaurants host Cooking With Company’s weekly classes. Decide on the style of food you’d like to learn, or just watch as the guest chef prepares your six-course lunch for $85. It’s also worth the drive just to see the kitchen’s breathtaking views and the Hastings River, which cuts through the property.

Near Wauchope, Bago Vineyards sits on Herons Creek under the shadow of Bago Mountain, with great views of the valley. At this family-owned winery, you can observe winemaking in the tradition of the 1800s, and taste wines from the barrels. Live jazz is held on the lawns and under the pergola on the second Sunday of each month.

About 15 minutes north of Port Macquarie, Ricardoes Tomatoes is also worth a visit – the 18,000  vines are a sight to behold. Taste the difference of organic, vine-ripened Tradiro tomatoes, available at the farm gate seven days a week.

Another gourmet attraction is Blue Poles at Byabarra. Built by artists to house contemporary art in a bush setting, it remains a gallery but now also boasts a cafe and holiday studio. The cafe serves homemade lunches from Thursday to Sunday, overlooking the beautiful valley below.

All information correct at time of print.

Getting there

You can use the NRMA’s Travel Planner to map out your route to and around Port Macquarie and to find out things to do and see along the way. Visit NRMA Travel Planner. For a great range of accommodation ideas, check out Open Road’s Holiday Accommodation Guide by turning to page 59 of this issue or visit www.openroad.com.au. If you plan to hire a car, NRMA Members receive 10% off the best rate of the day for cars rented through Thrifty. Call 13 11 22. If you book online through the Thrifty website or the NRMA Travel website, you will receive 15% off the best rate of the day. And if you’d like to do either of these trips by campervan, Britz has special NRMA Member discounts, while Maui offers special NRMA Member discounts on motorhome hire. For more information call 13 11 22 or visit NRMA Travel.