Go touring this autumn to really experience the colour of the season. Discover some wonderful attractions, enjoy a festival or take a quiet drive through quaint – and unusual – villages. Louise Goldsbury uncovers the charms of three diverse inland towns: Bundanoon, Bathurst and Griffith. Bundanoon The first thing to get straight is that Bundanoon is Brigadoon, and it’s at Bundanoon, but only for one day a year. The second thing is that Bundanoon is like Scotland, and that’s every day of the year. Brigadoon, on the other hand, only exists every 100 years. (See box ‘Bundanoon is Brigadoon’.)

What is clear, however, is the natural beauty and charm of the area. Situated in the Southern Highlands, 140km south-west of Sydney, Bundanoon has an old-world ambience, with historic buildings, antique dealers, art shops and guesthouses.

On the Illawarra Highway at Sutton Forest, The Little Piece of Scotland sells homemade shortbread, Dundee cakes and biscuits. The business is managed by descendants of the original owners, who ran it as a butcher shop from 1895. The adjacent stables, where the butcher kept the horses he used to make deliveries, are now a craft shop.

This Southern Highlands’ region feels more United Kingdom than purely Scottish, with nearby Exeter referred to as ‘Little England’ because of its private gardens. Then there’s an Irish influence, with Sutton Forest holding a Little Piece of Ireland Festival in June, while back at Bundanoon, the local pub serves Guinness on tap.

As a gateway to Morton National Park, Bundanoon is surrounded by mountains, forests, sandstone cliffs and waterfalls that cascade into the valley below. One of NSW’s largest parks, Morton has great bushwalking trails and picnic spots. At the National Parks Visitors Centre, in the eastern section, you can pick up maps for short walks that lead to excellent views.

At dusk, head down William Street to the Glow Worm Glen to see these amazing creatures and their luminescent larvae. Don’t forget to bring a torch for the walk back.

Drive: Bundanoon to Kiama (95km) While you may feel you’re deep in the British countryside, Bundanoon is barely more than an hour’s drive to some great Aussie beaches. Head out of Bundanoon through Exeter, and if you fancy a detour, wind your way around the country lanes. Explore the fine old buildings, such as the heritage railway station, and the century-old trees, hedgerows and gardens of many of Exeter’s homes.

Carry onto the famous Fitzroy Falls, the name of a waterfall and a small village on the main road. Part of Morton National Park, the falls tumble more than 80 metres down the escarpment. Choose from the easy East Rim (2–3 hours) or West Rim (15 minutes) walking tracks – both offer views of Grotto Falls and Twin Falls.

If you only have time for one stop, make it Kangaroo Valley. It’s reputed to be one of only seven fully enclosed valleys in the world, and the vista from above is outstanding.

Have a drink at the Friendly Inn Hotel (one if you’re driving), take a canoe down the river, or reminisce in the old-fashioned sweet shop.

On the way out, pass over the one-way Hampden Bridge. As the oldest surviving suspension bridge in Australia, its medieval style suits the quirkiness of the village.

Beautiful Berry, although a little busier, is also worth a visit for its cafe culture and antique shops. The tree-lined town sits beneath the Cambewarra Range and has several National Trust buildings, a museum, craft shops and good restaurants.

Hitting the coast at Gerringong, Werri Beach is pristine and popular. A few minutes south, Seven Mile Beach will knock your socks off. You’ll forget you were just in the highlands.

Gerringong’s gift shops and galleries are also great for browsing, or head inland to Crooked River Wines, which has a cellar door and restaurant overlooking the countryside.

The lovely Kiama is synonymous with its blowhole, and it’s certainly an impressive sight when the seas are rough. But you’ve come for the beaches, so take your pick.

Surf Beach, whose name says it all, is in the heart of Kiama, next to Coronation Park, and is patrolled by lifeguards until Anzac Day (April 25). To the south, Kendalls Beach is well protected and most suited to young families. Kiama Downs Beach, adjacent to North Kiama Drive, is good for swimming, surfing and body surfing. 

Bundanoon is Brigadoon - April 28

One of the world’s largest celebrations of Scottish culture is the Southern Highlands’ annual festival, Bundanoon is Brigadoon. The mythical village of Brigadoon rises from the mountains in Bundanoon for a traditional highland gathering. Brigadoon, according to Scottish legend, appears for only one day every hundred years, and the tradition is brought to life here, in Australia, for the 30th year in 2007. Highland games and dancing, a street parade, hundreds of pipers and drummers, and about 15,000 visitors descend on the tiny town (population 1937). Nowhere else in Australia can you see haggis hurling, the caber toss (similar in size and weight to a telegraph pole), medieval duelling, the kilted dash, and the Lifting of the Bundanoon Stones of Manhood (up to 150kg). Especially for the festival, the Heritage Express train travels to Brigadoon from Sydney, departing Central Station on Saturday morning at 8am. For more information click here.

 

Bathurst

Bathurst brings out the revhead in all of us. The inviting sight of the Mount Panorama racing circuit is enough to make anyone want to press the pedal to the metal. This 6km track is a public road for most of the year, but the speed limit is only 60km/h. This of course changes during the Bathurst 1000, the annual motor race for which the city is most famous. If you feel the need for speed while you’re there over Easter, have a go on the simulators at the National Motor Racing Museum. The museum is a unique attraction positioned on the racing circuit at Murray’s Corner.

The collection covers a wide range of motorcycle and car racing memorabilia from all over Australia. 

Bathurst has had a long association with motor racing and is regarded as the home of touring car racing in Australia. Motorcycle racing is believed to have started in the area, near Kelso, around 1911. From 1931 to 1937, speedway-style racing was held on the Vale Circuit until the Mount Panorama circuit was completed.

But it’s not all cars and high-tech races – Bathurst is rich in history and culture. As one of Australia’s oldest inland settlements, the city has many colonial buildings and grand old houses. Connections to the gold rush era and wealthy graziers have also given Bathurst a sophisticated feel.

Historic inland coaching company Cobb & Co had its headquarters at Bathurst in 1862, and you can follow its legendary route from the city all the way to Bourke. The Bathurst end of the heritage trail takes in the sites of the old coach factories and the original passenger pick-up spot and booking office. See the real thing at the Bathurst Visitors Centre, which houses a restored Cobb & Co coach.

The city was also the home of our 16th Prime Minister, Ben Chifley, and his modest residence, Chifley Cottage, is open to the public.

And if you’re into dinosaurs, check out the only complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton in the country on display at Bathurst’s Australian Fossil and Mineral Museum.

Drive: Bathurst to Sofala (50km)

The drive from Bathurst to Sofala is only 40 minutes so should not be missed if you want a taste of history.

Heading north out of town, cross the bridge to Kelso, a town that has changed little over the years. The hotel, post office and butcher’s shop have maintained their 1840’s colonial style, while the old general store has stayed standing since 1890.

Turn left into Gilmour Street to find Woolstone House, built by the son of Thomas Kite, one of the first 10 settlers. A few doors along is the Holy Trinity Church, next to the pioneer cemetery. Founded in 1825, this was the first church in inland Australia. Turn off the highway into Boyd Street, which becomes Limekilns Road, and after about 6km, keep an eye out for the sign to the Bathurst Sheep and Cattle Drome. Here, you can learn about farm life, see sheep-dog demonstrations, have a pony ride, visit an animal nursery and much more. Shows are held most days, 8am–4pm.

Get back on the highway and continue to Sofala, Australia’s oldest surviving gold rush town. Set beside the Turon River with a dramatic mountain backdrop, the former tent city draws artists as well as a few tourists to its beautiful attractions.

Pick up a guide to the village from the Sofala Souvenir Shop, along with some gold-panning equipment. Then follow the historical walking tour through the town’s two streets, or do one of the two self-guided drives.

The Upper Turon drive includes the Church of England cemetery, the old school, the original hospital, Western Goldfields Museum, the Chinese miner settlement, Ration Hill and Pennyweight Creek. The Lower Turon drive includes Spring Creek, a picnic spot where you can pan for gold, and Wallaby Rocks, for a swim.

In town, there are several charming buildings dating from the 1850s and 60s, such as the lopsided Gas Hotel (the foundations are timber stumps!), the Royal Hotel and the Old General Store. The two-storey post office is now a lovely private home.

For a longer walk, Wattle Flat (8km south of Sofala) on Bathurst Road, offers the three-hour Buurree Walking Trail. You are likely to be rewarded with kangaroos, native flowers and reminders of the gold rush era.

Bathurst International Motor Festival - April 6-8

The Bathurst International Motor Festival (BIMF) was launched last year to showcase contemporary race cars alongside historical cars. This special festival will herald the return of the WPS Bathurst 12 Hour Race of production cars, last held in 1994. The entry-level Commodore Cup Series, which debuted in 1995, has also been added to the program. For an adrenaline rush, you can experience a hot lap around the track in a V8 Ride Car sitting next to a professional driver from Paul Morris’ V8 Super School. Prices start from $100. Other highlights include demonstrations by motor sport legends and entertainment on Pit Straight. For details visit Bathurst International Motor Festival.